םייללכ םיפיט -
תויצקרטאו הכישמ ידקומ -
הרובחת -
םילכונ - תוריהז -
: לובג ירבעמ ,תויורירגש ,הסינכ תורשא
I wanted to extend my six month tourist visa but was told this is no longer possible. It was a bit of a problem as I had a standby ticket and all the flights were full. The British consulate in Mumbai says that India will only extend visas in life-or-death situations. The only other option is to travel to a neighbouring country and apply for a new visa there.
A visa application in Colombo, Sri Lanka, needs a minimum of one week. The High Commission asks the Indian embassey in your home country for confirmation of your application form. If they do not reply, you cannot get your visa in Colombo and the fees for the visa application will not be refunded.
You can not get a visa extension anywhere in India. You must either go to Sri Lanka - In Colombo it's possible to get three month visa and in Kandi it's possible to get a six months visa extension. Or, you can go to Nepal (Katmandu) and extend your visa there.
A tourist visa costs A$45.00 according to the information provided by the High Commission of India in Camberra. Apply for it there- NOT at the recently opened Indian Consulate in Melbourne, where it costs A$55.00!
Perhaps I was led astray by the arbitary whims of the immigration official of the day, but when I went to the Foreigners Registration Office in Jaipur, I was informed that a visa extension for my 6 month visa could only be obtained in Delhi. Thankfully I was not in Kerala.
It is now very easy to get permits to Sikkim. All Indian Missions abroad are authorised to issue a 15 inner line permit for Sikkim. This can be stamped on the passport at the time of obtaining the visa for India but one must request for it. You can also get a 15 day permit from any of the Sikkim Government Offices located at Delhi (opposite the US embassy) Calcutta or at Siliguri. In case you fail to do this and find yourself at the State border, Rangpo, without a permit, the Tourism Officer stationed there will issue a permit with two day validity to enable you to enter the State and the permit is then very promptly revalidated for the full 15 days on arrival at Gangtok. The State Government also extends the 15 day permit for two further spells of 15 days at a time in case the foreigners wish to stay longer. With the 15 day permit you gain access to Gangtok, and all district headquarters (Namchi, Geyzing and Mangan) and all subdivisional headquarters (Soreng, Pakyong, Ravangla) except for Chungthang in North Sikkim which is accessible only to foreigners who form a group of four or more persons.
: םייללכ םיפיט
Ahmedabad is the place for modern and indigenous architecture:
Visit the School of Architecture C.E.P.T., University Road, Navrangpura (architecture by B.V. Doshi), sit, drink chai and chat with students at the canteen;
When travelling 2nd class sleeper (the best compromise between economy and convenience) always remember to buy a ticket for the upper berth. It is safer for the luggage and you will not be disturbed by other passengers.
The State Bank of India in Kaza, Himachal Pradesh, doesn't change any currency, cheques or bills.
One of the things that really struck me in South India, is the impact of travellers on the children there. I know that a lot of travellers give kids pens and sweets and it is done with the best of intentions, but it is turning kids into beggars.
Flying from Mumbai to Kochin, I was very surprised indeed not to land at the airport on Willingdon Island but at the new international/domestic airport some 38 kms north east of the city where all flights now arrive/depart. The new airport is excellent but rather remote from Kochin and is used for all passenger flights. It seems that it was opened just a month or two ago. Jet Airways, by the way, is a most excellent airline with brand new planes and excellent food and service.
The Indian Railways have recently released the new version of the railway time-table titled 'Trains at a Glance' in a new, larger, very user-friendly and colourful format! I recently purchased a copy of it (it costs Rs.25), and it is an item that every traveller in India must possess. The book is available in book stores at major railway stations.
By travelling in the monsoon, places were less crowded, hotels easy to book, prices are a bit lower, local tourist facilities more relaxed. Excellent time to travel ! All one needs is an umbrella.
When you are considering a guest hourse, firstly check your prospective bed for bed bugs. Lift the mattress and check along the seams for the little demons before you agree to stay. They look like small ticks and laze about in matress seams during the hot days waiting for a meal.
The traffic in Chennai has now caught up with that of Mumbai. Taxis are few and far between so auto rickshaw is more likely, but the increased traffic makes this more difficult to get around and to breathe.
We arrived at the check-in counter at the airport in Mumbai for an internal flight and were told that our bookings were cancelled by the airline because we hadn't reconfirmed the tickets. The check-in staff told us that it is the rule in India to reconfirm all flights - even internal flights no matter which airline you choose to fly with.
I found the Bannerghatta National Park to be a total rip-off. Entry is Rs 150 and in addition there is a fee for bringing in cameras. I found it nearly impossible to take any photos because the very uncomfortable bus which herded our safari through lion country, was covered on the outside by steel mesh with tiny portholes through which you are expected to take photos. That is, if you can get close enough to the tiny round window to begin with. The safari ride lasts only about 20 minutes. The only other attraction at this park is a zoo which I found typical of zoos in third world countries - dirty, depressing and not very comfortable for the animal inmates.
A lot of travellers agree that Delhi was a nightmare of a town. My friend actually went home after two days in Delhi because he couldn't cope with it. Since Delhi is the place where most people arrive, I think travellers should be warned about what a bad impression it can give of India to first time visitors. But hang in there because there are plenty of other places that you will find a hell of a lot more to your liking.
The High Court of Kerala has issued a directive banning smoking in public places such as streets, bus stops, railway stations, buses, trains restaurants, etc. Many people have been arrested and fined (normally Rs 200 although there is provision for both higher fines and for imprisonment). There have also been reports in the press of police harassing people and demanding a bribe rather than making an arrest - these reports may be apocryphal, but....
In Delhi in particular, the Government has recently decided to charge a different entry rate for foreigners. It used to be Rs 10 to see the Museum of Modern Art in Delhi and has now risen to Rs 10 for Indians and Rs 150 for foreigners.
Concerning the departure tax at airports in India, I recently found out that the departure tax was included in the price of my airline ticket. I had been pre-paying and then paying again at the tax window at the airport. Check your tickets.
There will be a new entrance fee applicable to foreigners wishing to see the Taj Mahal from January 01, 2000. The new rate is Rs 500 per head. This will be raised to Rs 2000 from January 1st, 2001. The Agra Fort entrance fee will also rise to Rs 500 from January 1st, 2001.
To avoid "shoe shine" wallahs don't wear leather boots. Wear sandals instead. But then you'll get "Stitching, you need stitching". I decided to fool them once and for all by walking barefoot down a street known for it's shoe repair wallah's. By the end of the street I'd been offered several pairs of shoes on sale! You can't beat India.
Although Air India has suspended it's bus service to the airport, there is still a fast and hassle free method to get to the airport without relying on the services provided by predative taxi wallahs.
It is not necessary to spend a day in the bank in Goa anymore. If you have a VISA card, go to the Lawande centre in Candolim. It takes just a few minutes to get your money and it is not expensive.
One of the most sacred temples of India (one of the infamous sacred seven which includes the one at Tirupathy) is located in Vaishno Devi, Jammu. Once you get to Jammu by train via Punjab from Delhi, you can easily hire a Sumo or car to take you to the bottom of the mountain. After walking up for about four hours, you get to the top. They say it is sacred if you bathe in the water that comes down the mountain. They also say that if you make a wish there, it will come true. Seeing this part of India was a pleasant change from all the smog in Delhi.
At the Jain temple at Ranakpur, Rajasthan, you are not allowed to wear anything black. In the space of 10 minutes I saw probably half a dozen prospective visitors being turned away. This rule was not enforced at smaller, less important Jain Temples. Incidentally, taking a black camera in poses no problem at all, they just give you a piece of cloth with which to cover the offending item and of course, then charge you a fee for the privilege of using your camera.
Avoid the minaret at Jama Masjid (Delhi) on busy holidays. We went on Republic Day and found it over crowded, with more people pushing to get up. The stewards at the bottom seemed only too keen to amass as many people as possible however it became extremely uncomfortable and dangerous.
A new hostel is opening in Pelling, Western Sikkim, in association with the Denjong Padma Choeling Academy (DPCA) . In the past travellers have visited and volunteered as teachers at the DPCA but the school campus is no longer able to accommodate travellers. However the new hostel will provide dormitory beds, hot water geysers and vegetarian meals at a modest rate and the profits will provide an income for the school. Working at the DPCA is a rewarding experience and at the present time volunteers at the school are granted with free room and board. The school is located halfway between Pelling and the Pemayangtsi monastery.
Sivaganga is a small village some 40 km north-west of Bangalore lying about 5 km south of the Pune highway. The village is dominated by a granite outcrop some 900 m high with some temples on the slopes and summit that date back to circa AD1400. Lord Shiva is one of the foremost Hindu gods and his "vehicle" is Nandi (bull), a sculpture of which sits on the summit. The walk to the summit is relatively easy with a signposted path. The path is quite steep in places with steps cut into the granite and handrails to aid walkers. I was there about three weeks ago and the return walk took some three hours, although at least four hours should be allowed by most walkers since I consider myself to be fairly fit.
Quite frankly, I don't see what all the fuss with Varanasi is about. Ok, so you can take a boat ride on what must be the world's biggest sewer at sunrise and see the open-air crematoria. Sadly, it is these same crematoria going about their business all day everyday which create the stench soaked clouds of smoke which drift about the city. The sunrise wasn't bad but I wouldn't go back for another, in addition to which it was only bright red because of all the pollutants in the air anyway.
The Andaman Islands are a beautiful place but do not trust the "bank manager" in the Canara Bank in Port Blair. He says he can give you a cash advance on your Visa card, but Calcutta office will not authorise him to do this and without that, he can do nothing. We trusted his word, spent all our money thinking we could get some more from him and then ended up waiting (and going slowly mad) for an international money transfer from England for three weeks. Port Blair is an interesting place, but it's not that bloody interesting.
Travellers make the mistake of taking too much stuff. I have found that the two things that take up an inordinate amount of room and weight are shoes and towels. Shoe problem is easy to solve in India. One pair of shoes (canvas tennis shoes seem to work best) and a pair of flip flops. The towel situation is even easier. In India things don't dry because of the humidity and I have found using a pillow case cut on the seams with edges re-stitched, works better than anything. It folds flat, drys fast and thorough, and is convenient to pack.
At New Delhi station, the left luggage only costs a few rupees, but isn't the easiest to use. You must be able to demonstrate that your luggage is lockable and have a padlock and chain to secure it to one of the racks in the left luggage area. There are plenty of reasonably priced padlocks and chains for sale around the Pahar Ganj Gate entrance to the station. You don't need to fill out a 'requisition form' to leave your luggage; take it in yourself and chain it to the shelving. The office is closed for breaks at inconvenient times.
An important tit-bit if you're "travelling by air from India to Nepal - it is illegal to take Indian 500 rupee notes out of India and into Nepal. There apparently had been a problem with counterfeit Indian 500 rupee bills being circulated in Kathmandu
Always check Indian Airlines departures one day before boarding as the time on your (even re-confirmed) ticket is not necessarily the actual departure time. Air India also changes departure times easily, even en route.
I tried to get to Dudhsaqar Falls in Goa however the train no longer goes all the way there. You have to depart the train at Kulem station and from there catch a share 4WD at around R400 per person (seats 5-6). This fetches you back to the station to catch the afternoon train back to Margao.
Jet Airways now flys into Port Blair from Chennai - I have been at the mercy of Indian Airways wait list stranglehold on air traffic here. Jet is most welcome and very keen to be of service.
I encountered a lot of trouble when changing travellers cheques - even in quite large towns like Kumbakonam (eventually I had to return to Tanjore, where I had stayed the previous night to cash some). In Rameshwaram I was the first person to succeed in changing a travellers cheque for 6 months according to a English resident who has to go to Madras regularly to change his money. Apparently there are only a few branches of banks authorised to change travellers cheques as there has been a lot of fraudulent presentation of cheques recently, and they need to make proper computer checks. This didn't change the fact that in Goa almost every corner shop changes cheques with no fuss (but extra commission).
Intercity buses (with trips lasting up to 7 hours) have at least two speakers broadcasting, to the whim and desired volume of the driver, Singala news, Rugby matches or his favourite tapes. I suggest you either take earplugs or maybe a head set to soften the torture.
Some hostels give approximately 30% discount during the off season in Sikkim. We were there in the middle of Feburary (the 'season' begins in early March) and the discount made staying at out hotel pretty reasonable. The off season also means that there are fewer people and fewer crowds.
While in Goa, a cheap way to live is to rent out someone's house. I paid little for a house on Baga beach. There was no toilet or water, but the well was 100 yards away and we kind of had on outside loo (the garden) It was brilliant!!!
Taxi drivers in India never admit to having change (though often they obviously do), so you're better off negotiating a fare that you can pay precisely.
When travelling in India the tap water can be purified easily, affordably and quickly for safe drinking purposes. There are a few water pumps on the market that ensure that almost any water can be made potable. These pumps remove viruses and micro-organisms such as protozoa, fungi, bacteria and dysentary. Therefore, saving on the HUGE amounts of trash visitors accumulate in empty bottled water alone. It is a crime to see the waste of these bottles adding up the already harshly polluted areas.
While we were in Goa we visited the International Animal Rescue Sanctuary which is tackling the problem of Goa's stray dog population. The two English girls who seem to be in charge of things are doing a great job. They rely on donations from tourists and are open for visits on Chogm Road, near Mahindra Jeep Yard, Saligao, Bardez (it's only a short taxi ride away from Calanguate).
I visited the Andaman Islands and went on the trip to Jolly Buoy Island in the Mahatma Gandhi Marine Park. It was very sad to see that they throw the anchors on the reefs in the Park.
If the touts for the souvenir and carpet shops become a nuisance, it is sometimes pleasant to be a nuisance back. One way is to discuss endlessly why you should or should not go to their shop. I disputed with one tout for some while. Eventually he said that he wanted me to go to his shop "because we believe that having elderly people in our shop will bring us good luck". I said: "That's crap" and he said : "Yes, but it was all I could think of".
After visiting the Amber Fort in the afternoon, a possibility to have a long, but cheap, elephant ride is to stand at the entry of the Amber Fort on the main road and wait until one elephant rider passes by on their way to the "elephant's sleeping room" and pick you up. The ride goes along the main road (thrilling if there's a lot of traffic) towards Jaipur and ends at the Jal Mahal (water palace). There's almost no water hyacinth in the lake which surrounds it, providing a very special scenery and breeding place for Kingfishers, which in the late afternoon hours do their diving-work.
If you are staying in Udaipur, Rajasthan, take the chance to go for a day trip (or longer) to Ranakpur Jain Temple, which is about two to three hours bus ride. It's truly amazing, all built out of marble and all of the 1444 pillars have different carvings on them. One is purposely built crooked, as Jains believe that nothing can be perfect except for the Gods. Be careful not to turn your back to any of the Gods, though, as this is really frowned upon, as is taking their photographs. If you get a chance to talk to the High Priest, he is a really nice guy, who will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about Jainism.
In Mumbai, the lobby of the Taj Hotel is a great place for cooling down - the air-conditioning makes it feel like Europe. The toilets are also really clean and there is a bookshop which is great for spending time if you're waiting for a train. However, don't try to change money at reception unless you're a guest - they get very snotty about this. It's a bit unreal walking out of India into a hotel which could be anywhere from London to New York.
I found the Red Fort pretty disappointing - the forts in Agra and outside of Jaipur were much better. The sound and light show at the Red Fort is incredibly hokey. There are no laser-type lights - just coloured illumination switched off and on to unintentionally funny sound effects.
A walk to the main burning ghat, Manikarnika ghat, is a must. Not long after your arrival I was greeted by a guy who insisted he was not a guide, but rather a hospice volunteer who would like to explain the story behind the cremations. I was very sceptical but found that the guy was very informative and answered many of my questions. The guy had a rather novel introduction - "burning is learning, cremation is education" and he would repeat this every time there was a pause in his story. At the end of the lesson he asked if I could donate some money to one of the women in the hospice so that she could buy wood for her imminent cremation! I was happy to give her Rs20 but saw others giving up to Rs100 and then being told that Rs100 wasn't enough.
I spent New Year's Eve in Bombay. The place to be is in front of the Taj Mahal hotel. The whole area was packed. I haven't said "Happy New Year" and shaken as many hands in my life as I did that night. What an atmosphere!It almost got out of hand when I was being carried around by about 20 blokes, but amazingly my wallet wasn't touched.
Mumbai is a big city and the best way to get around is to use the red buses- they are cheap and the conductors will tell you when to get off. The Victoria terminal train station is very busy so if you need to book tickets make sure you get there at opening, otherwise you will be lining up in the heat for ages. When it all gets too much and you need a break from the hustle and bustle, spend some time in the lobby of the Taj Mahal.
In Delhi and towns along the Ganges Plain, upper respiratory problems seemed to plague many travellers in December because of high pollution trapped by fog and no wind. It's a good idea to bring or buy a cotton scarf in India to cover mouth and nose in heavily congested traffic areas. Many locals do. Also bring along sinus decongestant medication and an antibiotic eye ointment. The poisonous nature of the air over the Ganges plain cannot be overemphasized.
We experienced some difficulties changing money in Bihar. Bank branches do not have the necessary license to handle foreign currency, not even in a district capital like Bihar Sharif. Even in Patna there were problems; the State Bank of India twice refused to cash Amex cheques because they had been issued by a bank they weren't authorised to deal with. The best place to change in Patna is Trade Wings in the Hotel Maurya complex at the top of Fraser Road; they don't charge commission and they give a decent exchange rate.
The bank in Bikaner charges 10% commission for travellers cheques and most ATM machines in Jaipur will only accept local cards. There is a scam going down with one of the banks in Jaipur (or so I read on a noticeboard in a hostel), so be careful where you get your cash advance.
If you're going to India and plan to travel economically on the train in second class non-airconditioned, I found it helpful to sew a cotton bedsheet in the form of a sleeping bag to sleep in on the bench seats. It provided a convenient, portable, lightweight and sanitary sleeping surface for trains or any other unusual places. It can be easily washed and quickly dries.
If purchasing train tickets from the central booking centre in New Delhi, there are two special counters for credit card holders only. Use your cards and avoid the tiringly long queues at the cash payment counters.
Be prepared when travelling in India to go through every emotion from pure anger and frustration when your train is anything from 5 to 30 hours late, and wonder and awe at the beauty and colours of the country. Be prepared for it to be hard work sometimes, but personally I thought it was worth every minute.
: תויצקרטאו הכישמ ידקומ
Uttara Kannada is famous for its natural beauty. Rivers flow like snaakes round huge rocks, and the terrain is so treacherous that the rivers often fall off cliffs creating beautiful waterfalls. Uttara Kannada is also called the land of waterfalls. It has 18 falls of which Jog Falls is very famous. Here is another falls which the outside world hardly knows about. It is called Dewkar Falls, falling from a height of 210 feet. The falls is worth the trek in the forest for 10 kms. You have to brave the leeches and ghat sections to reach the place. Even the residents of the village Dewkar who are just 3kms away from the falls have hardly seen it.
In Shimla, there are two wonderful Tibetan gompas to visit. To visit Sangye Choeling Monastery, take a bus bound for Narkanda from Revoli bus stand north of the mall and get off after 15 minutes at the main junction at Sanauli. Go approximately 500 m along the main road and take the second road up the hill - you will arrive at a fine Tibetan gompa where 45 monks live. The gompa has a nice Tsonkapa as well as a nice Buddha Sakyamuni statue.
If you want to get to altitude and see some snow-capped peaks and either haven't the time or the roads aren't open to allow you to go north to Gangotri, then go to Surkanda Devi. It's a temple sacred to the Goddess at an alittiude of 3030 metres and has great views but is relatively close to Rishikesh. You get there by catching one of the many early busses from the Yatra Bus Stand to Chamba, changing then continuing to the base of Surkanda Devi. It's then just a 2 km hike to the top. There are usually several other pilgrims walking up but not droves unless it's a festival day. Set off early and you should have no difficulty getting back to Rishikesh on or before the last bus.
The tribal culture of India receives very little attention but is in itself fascinating. Whilst there is an absence of good quality information on the subject, it is still a highly worthwhile experience.
28 kms from Almora on the Almora Jageshwar Road, I noticed a board indicating the presence of stoneage cave paintings. Having recently read about the early man, my seven year old son was excited about the paintings which are in caves about fifty metres off the road. These are red, white and black coloured sketches of people, trees, animals and wavy lines, probably the river. Many of these were damaged by cement bags stacked here by bridge construction workers some years back but a large number of paintings are preserved in a fairly good condition and the area has been fenced off to prevent further inadvertent destruction.
Village:- Mahabalipuram. The only thing hard about this place is pronouncing the name. Ideal setting. A small village dedicated to stone carving straddles beside a newer 'service' centre with modest 'modcoms' including phone shops, eats, restaurants, transport etc. Thalli houses, temples and stone masons for cultural authenticity. Beachside restaurants and guest houses for comfort. I stayed in the local village and spent several days happily chiselling with the local stone carvers. Upon finishing my masterpiece I tried selling it (with success) back to them for a laugh. Warm days in the village are filled with the sound of chiselling and stone masonry. Quite an escape from Madras.
Indian cinema experience:- watching "Bombay" at the Taj Murti cinema in Jaipur. Seats as cheap as 15 IR at back. Crystal lights and actually air conditioned (when it's working), this cinema is reputed to be the best of all Indian cinemas. "Bombay" is about the Hindi/Muslim uprising in Bombay in 1992 - many people were killed during mass riots and civil disorder. Several projectiles were seen flying across the screen in the cinema during the movie. It became obvious that two distinct groups were seated on different sides of the cinema. No points for guessing who they were. The movie ends with both sides realising that the blood shed must stop. At the end of the movie a small fight broke out between several patrons from the different sides of the cinema who'd been throwing stuff at each other during the movie. My politically correct Dutch travelling companion stood up at the end of the movie and shouted "Haven't you learnt anything!!!". This necessitated a rather rapid departure.
We hiked from Yoksam to Dzongri Peak and we thought it was great. Hiking through what seems like enchanted forests up to a 4400m high view of peaks as far as Tibet and Nepal was amazing.
Udaipur was one of the best destinations of my trip, despite being hassled quite a lot, I found it very picturesque, with the space to be quiet if you needed to be, but with plenty going on -nightlife, sights to see etc.
During our trip to India we took all the usual North Goa and South Goa tours. All the beaches we saw had a different character. Vagator was indeed beautiful with its grey, black sand and lots of coconut trees lining the beach; Anjuna is basically a rocky beach and Colva, with its silver coloured sand. However, I do feel that the tours spent too much time at unnecessary places and less on the beaches.
There is a wealth of small towns in south India that are quite exquisite and rarely visited by foreigners. Most of them are fairly accessible by public transport - a lot easier if you have a car - and most have one or more tourist homes/small hotels of varying quality. I have stayed in several and it is obvious from the reactions as I walk down the street that Westerners are a very rare commodity. I have been met with nothing but courtesy and warm smiles. For example, Teni has a lovely hotel; Avanashi has a fantastic restaurant; Coonoor, by contrast, is full of drunks on a Friday night which my friends and I found quite intimidating; Trivandrum has a few decent restaurants and the list goes on.
One memorable experience while in India was the Pushkar Camel Fair. The camel drivers use camel shit for cooking fires and I had the unique experience of squatting in the sand at a camp with a group of men and eating some kind of dough-ball cooked directly in the hot ashes. It was tasty, but I couldn't get past the fact that it had been cooked in a shit fire, so when no one was looking, I shoved my uneaten portion down my pants (I didn't want to insult anyone by throwing it away).
Much later I remembered that it was there and got a most comical look from a local kid who saw me dig it back out again. Another addition to the legend of the Ugly American.
I learned a nifty bargaining trick while shopping for gold in Jaipur. After being told "Madame, I paid 6,000 Rs for this piece" (a figure which kept changing, by the way, to the accompaniment of much laughter - the shopkeeper kept forgetting the previous price), the shopkeeper finally said to me "Madam, I like you. I will give you sister-price!" and then quoted a very reasonable figure. I used this little trick for the next eight weeks - each time the bargaining seemed to bog down at a price which I considered to be far above reasonable, I would say "What is sister-price?" which seemed to get the bargaining back on track. Indians are quite fond of their sisters, it seems.
Varanasi has to be one of the most atmospheric travel destinations in the world. The sights, sounds and smells along the ghats in the early morning are amazing. A sunrise boat ride is unforgettable and will cost you about Rs15 per person per hour. We found that the best option was to find a boat owner and use him each time you want to go in the boat as this saves you the hassle of bargaining each time you want to go for a ride.
Varkala - This is a very peaceful spot. It has not been 'discovered" yet by the regular tourists and thus remains untouched to a great extent. The food is great and there are all kinds of accommodation available. This is a great place to unwind. The beach is clean, the people are friendly and there are no hawkers to bother you. Do not miss the sunset from the cliff as you lean your back against the coconut trees.
Nagaur deserves much more attention. The fort is amazing with fantastic interior paintings which are all now being exposed and restored with international funding. The fort has an amazing water collection and stone age system to try and make the best use of limited natural rainfall. The curator of this fort was excellent and was a mine of knowledge about the fort and the surrounding area. He said that there were only approx 2,000 visitors each year - such a pity with such a fantastic fort with so much to see.
: הרובחת
The airport in Kochin has moved approximately 30 km away from the city centre. A taxi is about Rs 300, depending how you negotiate.
I travelled on the new-ish bus which runs between Delhi and Lahore. It's a bit expensive, a bit lavish and nothing special as far as journeys go, but proved to be far less hassle than alternative routes and a novel historical highlight.
Mumbai - Konkan Railway down south is now fully opened, but gets very busy heading north towards Bombay. Essential to book at least a week in advance. Trains have a tourist quota - seats put aside exclusively for tourists - pursue this strongly if you are told the train is full.
At present the international services are just Air India and Indian Airlines to various places in the Gulf/West asia region but this will undoubetdly change. It should also mean greater connectivity from other regions of the world through the international terminal at Mumbai down to here thus avoiding the rather tiresome transit between terminals. This will bring these services into competition with the via Qatar, Bahrain, Abu Dhabit and Kuwait services from Europe and beyond into Trivandrum. I am not yet clear as to whether, for instance, adding Mumbai/Cochin on to a London/Mumbai sector will substantially affect the price.
When catching a train in India, ask the station master the exact location of your coach (front, middle or rear) as the trains can be very long and you cant get onto any coach and slowly move to your coach. Coaches of different classes are not accessible to each other and Indian Railways staff wont allow you to do so.
When going from place to place I strung together short-hop buses because long distance buses sometimes run only a few times a day, while the shorter ones go every half hour. The stringing together insured me the opportunity to stop off and have a meal or use the toilet or stretch my legs between journeys.
We used sleeper buses to travel between Mumbai - Goa and Goa - Hampi. They're a bit like being in a mobile coffin or a kitchen cupboard- depending on whether you get the velvet or wooden model. You can sleep fairly easily on them if you can ignore the crazy driving. They are also very cheap.
When motorcycling in Kerela, watch out for the buses, they are the worst, most psycopathic drivers in India!! They seem to run to almost impossible timetables. Apart from them, Kerela is a great place to ride, especially the north of Cochin and the ghats. The ride from Mysore to Telicherry is spectacular if a little bumpy at times.
I took the Ajmer-New Delhi, Shatabdi express, first class executive. This was a sheer extravagence, but I just wanted to see what it was like. The food was actually very good for a train, and the newspapers and air-con, together with the spacious leg room in front of the adjustable seats, added up to a really special train ride to end my trip to India.
Transport between Goa and Hampi is possible. They advertise the only way between the two is a 'Sleeper Bus'. This is not the case. Take the train from Hospet to Londa (4.5 hours only). Then walk up the street from the RR in Londa and catch a regular bus to Panaji, Margao, etc. Total travelling time is 8 hours. If you take the 'Sleeper Bus' (which is hot, more expensive, crowded and impossible to sleep) it will take a total of 12 hours travelling time.
When checking in for a international flight at Delhi, allow considerably more than one hour! It can take almost that long just to get inside the terminal door. Save time and frayed nerves, by security checking your baggage BEFORE queuing up yet again at the check-in counter (as the bags won't be accepted if they are not carrying the security seal)
When booking flight reservations it is nearly impossible to pay for an Indian flight in rupees. Make sure that you have got a credit card or enough foreign currency.
It is possible to travel between Mangalore in Karnataka to Mumbai on the new konkan railway. The train also passes through the beach resort of Gokarna which makes getting to this otherwise fairly out of the way place much simpler than before. The train also stops in Margao, Goa, enroute to Mumbai, although Indian style delays are common.
The catamaran between Mumbai and Goa has cancelled all journeys from January 10, 1999 and they say that it could take some time before the boat is back in business again. Just make sure to check the situation before heading there.
In Delhi there are now three interstate bus terminals on the outskirts of Delhi to handle most of the long distance traffic. Until everyone's used to the fact that all buses don't funnel through Kashmiri Gate ISBT anymore, there will be mass confusion for travellers, both foreign and Indian. The main problem lies in reaching the new terminals. Once you get to the right one, its a snap. The Anand Vihar terminal has 160 stalls and hosts buses that go as far afield as Kanpur, Jhansi and Almora. To get there you can catch buses from major bus stands in the metropolitan area, such as that near the Regal Cinema and Connaught Place.
Now it is possible to go to Goa by train from Mumbai (Bombay). The trains are run by Konkan Railway Corporation and it takes around 12 hours. The times are : Mumbai CST Departure - 22.30 pm; Madgaon (Goa) Arrival - 10.15 am.
: םילכונ - תוריהז
The warnings about ocean swimming in Kerala are well founded. I just swam at Kovalum and Varkala and was frightened a couple of times by the strong rips - even though I am an experienced ocean swimmer. Take care.
I would just like to warn travellers to check the bottom of plastic drinking water bottles for evidence of "foul play". Some of the street vendors drill a small hole in the bottom of the water bottle, empty the water, fill it up with local water and then deftly dab a little glue on the hole to cover it. When buying the water it looks fine as the seal on the top is still intact. I discovered this great scam whilst lying in bed with dysentry - the ingenuity of the Indians amazed me.
There was a high police presence on Kudle beach when we were there. People's rooms were searched regulary.
Female tourists should avoid being out alone in India on Holi Day. A lot of the men are drunk or high (or both) and there are no taxis in service until late in the afternoon. Last Holi Day I was in West Bengal and I made the mistake of venturing out alone. I was sexually assulted and robbed (not to mention being covered from head to toe in coloured paint that didn't wash out for 7 days). The police are no help in this type of situation.
NEVER ever drink Calcutta water. I was there a long time, but got giardia really bad. You can't treat it, really, so you just have to stand still on the street when you get cramps.
On arrival at the Delhi Railway Station about fifteen Indians approached us and insisted that the place on the second floor for tourists to get tickets was being decorated and had moved across the road. We practically got pushed across the road to the GOVERNMENT OF TOURISM OFFICE about four doors away from the end of the road on the left hand side, where upstairs a Kashmir travel agent proceedd to book all of our train tickets. The tickets arrived about six hours later and the agent had very kindly put all the information about the train platform, our seat number etc on a small peice of paper that he stapled to the bottom of our tickets. So off we went first stop Agra where we got talking to a Indian who out of curiosity asked us how much we had paid he then asked to see our tickets where he then peeled off the small peice of paper stapled to the ticket to reveal the actual cost of the tickets. We had been ripped off by 140.00 Englich pounds.
My brother went swimming at a small beach town in Kerala called Varkala. My brother, who swam daily for hours at a time, drowned just offshore as a result of the strong tides and currents. There are no signs or lifeguards. Please be aware that the currents and tides are especially dangerous in Kerala and be careful.
A particularly vicious and agressive scam operates at the two burning ghats in Varanasi. As you approach the burning ghats someone will tell you that the area is only for families only and you should move into a spot which, in fact, gives you a prime viewing area. If you don't take a photo, you will be pushed along after a few minutes. If you do take one, (as many people do tempted by this excellent vantage point) you're in for it. Two or three men will immediately demand your camera and film as evidence, stating that you've broken the rules and are now subject to six months in jail; you will have your passport confiscated and face a US$600 - 2,500 fine. They attempt to "islolate" you by taking you to their office. As you try to walk away, their behaviour becomes even more threatening and aggressive.
At this point a "compromise man" comes offering you another way of solving this problem by offering a donation to a hospice. I suggest that you demand to see the scamer's ID (they don't have any even though they claim to work at the ghats) and refuse to co-operate. Try to get someone from the crowd to help you or just visit the ghats in the safety of a group.
I want to alert travellers of the dangers facing female travellers in Jaipur. I caught an auto-rickshaw up to the Tiger Fort to view the sunset, when I suddenly found myself isolated from other travellers and surrounded by the drivers' friends who were waiting with alcohol and ganga. Fortunately for me there was one other group of travellers at the Fort who realised that something was wrong and helped me escape.
I was told that many girls have been raped and abandoned at the Fort. The men wait until the sun has gone down and then claim to have car troubles, making their passenger get out and push. The fact that they are now using rickshaws to cruise for girls is, I think, a frightening development and had I known, would have avoided by sharing transport with other travellers.
A very serious problem is encountered by foreigners travelling in Agra. Literally everyone staying in this town gets sick; some with colds and fevers, others with typhoid, but mostly with giardia symptoms. There was some rumours that local restaurants were perhaps poisoning the food, since restaurants and hotels can receive baksheesh for recommending a hospital to ailing tourists. Sometimes, the hotel at which you stay will try to collect baksheesh from the hospital as well as the restaurant you commonly eat at, even if the hotel did not recommend you to the hospital. My travelling buddy and I both were sick in Agra, and were recommended a hospital by a restaurant (which I am sure involved baksheesh for the owner). Our hotel caught wind that we had been treated, and wanted to collect baksheesh from the hospital as well as our restaurant. As they did not know which hospital we visited, our hotel sent thugs over to our restaurant to pressure the owner into revealing our hospital and into paying the baksheesh. When he refused to pay or divulge the information, the thugs spent two days following my friend and I around Agra waiting for us to lead them to the hospital. We were unaware they were following us for the first day, but found out the second day. Several times that day they stopped us in the streets and tried to "sell" us health insurance (needless to say never buy health insurance from a street hawker). They became increasingly belligerent and we were afraid for our safety in that town. Unfortunately, we were too sick to leave town for about five days, so we c hanged hotels, holed up in our new room and did not go outside until the day we left for Delhi. Beware of Agra!!
In Varanesi, the latest scam actually revolves around the LP guide. Entrepreneurial hotel owners have clearly read the book and changed the name of their establishments accordingly. They then have agreements with those who collect you from the early morning trains who whisk you off. By the time you are awake, you are booked into a dive with no door locks but with the right name. As you orientate yourself in the city, you realise that you are not where the book says you are. We met many travellers who had suffered in this way.
In Delhi as I was trying to buy a ticket to Dharamsala, a guy tried to persuade me to go to Kashmir and stay on a houseboat. He showed me letters from travellers who had been and pictures of how beautiful Kashmir is. I really wasn't interested as I knew that I wanted to go to Dharamsala so I bought my ticket. Later I went back to be taken to the bus and he started again about Kashmir and how boring Dharamsala is and out came the letters again. In Dharamsala I met an English girl who had gone to Kashmir after similar sales talk and had nothing good to say about Kashmiris and their houseboats. I told her about the letters and she had been forced to write one before being allowed to leave.
Drug use, even cannabis, should be avoided at all costs. Penalties are severe. The National Drugs and Psychotropic Substances (NDPS) Act is unforgiving and the minimum penalty for anything which the judge believes is not personal use, is 10 years; there is no remission.
A travel insurance scam popular is Agra involves a restaurant poisoning the food and then arranging for the victim to be taken to an obliging hospital for which they will receive 50% commission from the travellers health insurance payout.
Pat Jenner, UK (Sept 99)
Thomas Rae (March 99)
If you intend to remain in India for more than 190 days, you must register with the Foreign Registration Office (Commissioner) of Police, within two weeks of arrival (any major city). If this is not done, you can have problems when leaving the country.
Rumour has it that as a European Community Member, you can go to the Indian embassy in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, and apply for a one year visitor's visa - but travellers should confirm this before they rely on the information.
Perri Arnold Jnr, UK (Mar 99)
Josef Koberl, Australia (Mar 99)
Dav MacMeekin (Mar 99)
Areas like the beautiful Tsomgo (Changu) lake which is a two hour drive from Gangtok, the Yumthang Valley in North Sikkim, and the trekking area in West Sikkim are open only to groups of four or more. All this can be arranged through local travel agents on arrival in Sikkim.
The Government has also recently opened a number of new trekking routes and routes for mountain biking and white water sports for group tourists. The best seasons to visit are March to May and October to November. The winter months are cold but not severe and can be very enjoyable with the rains out of the way. During the summer, the monsoons set in and the roads get effected and travel plans can get frequently disrupted.
Tsegyal Tashi, Home Department, Government of Sikkim, India (Mar 99)
Le Corbusier and Kahn built in Ahmedabad: check out the Millowners building in Ashram Road; IIm (School of Management);
Local Architect: B.V. Doshi (Sangrath)
Kevin Luginbühl (Oct 99)
On tourist buses for long trips, try to get seat numbers three and four which are the first two seats near the door. There is much more space and it is easier to get a good sleep.
Take a hand towel with you while on the bus since air conditioning does not exist and temperatures and humidity can get unbelievably high.
Yariv Shlivinski, Israel (Oct 99)
Amy Pashov, USA (Oct 99)
There are a lot of kids in India who beg to survive. However, there are now a lot more who beg because they think they'll get goodies from any traveller they see. If you want to give something to the kids, how about donating school supplies or money to the local school. That way they can ensure that the most needy kids get the supplies. And when the kids ask you for something, spend some time with them instead of giving them sweets. They are fun, clever kids with loads of energy and are a super source of information about their country, if you're willing to take the time. They also love to be photographed.
This goes for the street kids in the cities as well. Asking their name and interacting with them a bit will make a world of difference that handing them a rupee without looking down just doesn't match.
Meredith Preston, Thailand (Oct 99)
Fr Ron Dowling, Australia (Sept 99)
Avarind Narasipur, India (Sept 99)
no name & address (Sept 99)
Sean Coleman, Canada (Sept 99)
Shopping in Chennai now includes Spencer Plaza, a real live shopping mall. There are clothes, handcrafts, food and the new Westside Department Store (air con comfort, clean toilets and Taj catering with an inhouse cafe). Also in Spencer Plaza is a fabulous music shop which has an international range of CDs, tapes and videos. There is also a supermarket. For a nostalgic trip if you have been travelling in India for a long time, wheel the trolley around the well stocked shelves, including fruit and vegetables, frozen foods and everything you'd normal buy in a supermarket. There is even a wine/beer section.
Between Dakshinachitra and Kovalam is an excellent Crocodile Bank, a good midway stop between Chennai and Mamallapuram. Price is Rs 5 to get in and see a huge display of crocodiles, lizards, snakes, turtles frogs and toads. It is run as a non profit venture and there are clear signs in English, Hindi and Tamil which are very informative.
Mamallapuram is becoming more and more crowded with tourist touts everywhere. Don't expect seaside peace and quiet, though the Shore Temple is definately worth a visit. The 14th century Hindu Talasayana Perumai Temple is also worth while and a guide will show you around inside the walls of the temple.
Belinda McCulloch, Australia (Aug 99)
Charlotte Rau Neilsen, Denmark (July 99)
Paul Brochu, India (July 99)
Jonathan Sedley (Aug 99)
Rod Daldry (July 99)
I also hear on good authority that the Rs 15 charge to see the Taj Mahal is going to be Rs 15 for Indians and Rs 500 for foreigners, rising to Rs 1000 for foreigners next year.
Jennifer Burgess (July 99)
Shakti (June 99)
Raman (July 99)
John Richards (July 99)
Take a suburbian train from VT station to Andheri (it is the terminal of the line). Travel time is 30 - 40 minutes, price is Rs 5. Exit Andheri station on the left hand side and walk 200 yards to the rickshaw stand or 50 yards further down the road to the junction and flag down a rickshaw. Travel time to the airport : 15 minutes, price Rs 40 which includes an "express supplemnent" (ie jumping the long queue at the rickshaw stand).
This option is feasible only if you are uncumbered by excessive luggage and if you avoid the early morning and late afternoon rush hours.
Yuval Ronen (June 99)
Vanda Karner, Norway (June 99)
At certain times you can see three different colours of water from the Swami Vivekandanda Memorial, Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu - each colour belonging to the three bodies of water (Bay of Bengal, Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea).
Mr. Urmen Upadhyay, USA (May 99)
Alison Bell, United Kingdom (May 99)
Elinor & William Baldwin, UK (May 99)
Fritha Wolsak, India (May 99)
There are frequent drink stalls selling bottled mineral water. The walk appears to be a popular day out for Indian families, but not that popular as to make the walk a crowded affair. However, the 35 degree temperature may have had a bearing on the numbers. The locals, as always, were very friendly.
The 360 degree panoramic view from the summit is excellent giving a good appreciation of the surrounding farmland. For those travellers who want to get out of Bangalore for the day and want some easy exercise then a visit to Sivaganga makes an excellent day trip.
Arvind Lodaya (May 99)
We were in Bhodgaya with the Dalai Lama and the Tibetans in December and I can fully recommend it. Even to non-buddhist fellow travellers that I met there it was very interesting. The Tibetan eateries set up in the season are very good, low key, cheap and efficient where you can dine next to a young re-incarnate Rinpoche or Abbot. The park around the main temple is built in the shape of a Mandala and you can get some quiet in the day or join the thousands at night for the spectacular candle offerings and circuits.
E. Wheeler, no address (May 99)
Vicky Burling, UK (May 99)
Ever look down at your stuff at the bus station and dread the thought of carrying it one more foot. I have had that sick feeling at more stations than I care to remember. Here's the solution: When you're in your room at night and have read your books; the TV only has cartoons on, in a foreign language to boot, then its the time to act. First, take everything you are carrying and put it on the bed (rolled or at least folded) and all the miscellaneous stuff you are toting along just in case. If you have more than fits on the bed in one layer, then you had better catch the next flight home.
After everything is laid out, rolled or folded, than separate it all into two piles with the thought in mind that one of these piles is going to get stolen or lost. The pile that you just cant get lose is your essential pile. Now the problem is what you can do with the other pile; almost essential, but not quite.
Choices now are: send it back home; stuff it in your companions bag when they are not looking; give it to people you meet. For instance, your waiter has a torn shirt - tell him you have just what he needs. Give it to the night clerk at the hotel or the driver/conductor on that long bus ride you are going to take (guess who got the best seat on the bus for a hat never worn and a too large pair of pants) or the guy who just did you a favour that maybe saved your life or limbs. Want to reduce it down further? Just make two more piles out of the essential pile. Looking back on all stuff I have given away, what I remember most was the appreciation in their eyes and the good feelings I had because of that look.
Jerry Janus, St Petersburg (May 99)
New rickshaw-wallah scam at New Delhi station: there are fake ticket inspectors on the footbridges over the tracks, who insist that you can't cross without a valid ticket and the foreigners' booking office has been relocated to a new address, which their friend will take you to in a rickshaw. If you're just crossing to get to Pahar Ganj, they tell you it is not allowed and you have to get a rickshaw round. Needless to say, they can procure you one very easily.
Some major railway stations now have credit card only counters. As credit cards aren't that widespread in India, these queues are usually much shorter than the madness at the surrounding counters.
Departure tax is now included in the price of the air ticket, even though signs in Delhi airport indicate otherwise.
Stuart Pattullo (Apr 99)
Grishma Shah-Eizinga (Apr 99)
Leo De Clercq (Apr 99)
John Brisby, UK (Apr 99)
Louise Tower (Apr 99)
Barbara Mears, England (Apr 99)
Nicolas Carpluk, USA (Apr 99)
Rakesh Agrawal, USA (Apr 99)
Cheryl Thorne, UK (Apr 99)
Even when a taxi has been pre-paid in full (and a receipt obtained) the driver may pretend that he has insufficient fuel to complete the journey unless a further cash payment is made.
Sink plugs - Indians wash only in running water (where they can) so there are almost never sink plugs. For purposes like washing small laundry in bathrooms, a universal-type plug is a valuable item. So are a few metres of string and clothes pegs.
My experience with traveller's cheques in three states suggest that the most widely accepted are Thomas Cook and (especially in dollar denominations) American Express.
Many visitors to India may be interested in the comprehensive herbal dietary supplements such as Chyawanprash, available from Ayurdevic pharmacies in sealed plastic containers (about 15 times cheaper than in London).
The Government of India Tourist Office was a helpful outlet with advice and maps.
Peter and Therese O'Neill, UK (Mar 99)
Sabrina & Wade DeLashmutt, USA (Mar 99)
There is a new "Artesan and Hippie Market" started in Arpora on Saturday nights. It's a lot smaller than Anjuna and has a lot more Westerners selling stuff, but it's worth a visit if you are in the area. It's just off the Calangute to Anjuna Road.
Narinder Dhami, UK (Mar 99)
The organisation of the boat ride was both funny and frustrating to watch. In a small rowing boat a group of about 10 people are taken to a large boat, waiting approximately 10 metres from shore. This meant that loading up all passengers took at least one hour. Then, at Jolly Buoy, it takes at least an hour and a half to take everyone to the island because while all passengers are waiting, they take the people to shore in a glassbottom boat and go for a tour over the reefs. Some people swan to the island because it took too long for them. By the time everyone is on the island, it is almost time to load up everyone again. It seems such a simple thing to build a jetty, not only to save time but also to save some corals. Most corals are damaged around the island, but the island is beautiful. A sign says : "leave nothing but your footprints", which is a nice effort.
Some shops have opened up in Port Blair which sell shell rimmed mirrors and other shell products. Please don't buy any as it encourages the local people to fish up shells and other marine animals. According to a shopkeeper, the government sets out specific area's for fishing up the shells and these change every year.
On Havelock government people working on the resort empty dustbins on the beach - everywhere. Refuse to use plastic bags and buy one of those nice big cotton bags which also make a nice souvenir.
Open now for foreign visitors are: entire islands of South and Middle Andamans (except reserves), Rangat, Mayabunder, Diglipur, North Passage Island, Little Andaman (exluding tribal reserve).
Visit daytime: Jolly Buoy, South Cinque, Red Skin, Mount Harriet, Madhuban, Ross Island, Narcondum, Interview, Brother, Sister and Barren Island.
It is very likely that more parts will be opened up in the future (according to Tourist Department).
Always double check for flights ahead of time. I waited eight hours in Calcutta before I discovered that my flight to Delhi had been cancelled. There was no information on the boards and and I had confirmed the flight just two days before. With a lot of effort and with the great help of Indian Airlines Duty Managers, I was able to fly to Mumbai last minute and then on to Delhi with half an hour to change planes and just enough time to catch my international connections. I will always double double check my flights from now on.
Pauline Krebbers, Canada (Mar 99)
Frank A. Sharman, UK (Mar 99)
Rolando Ureta & Gabriela Rose (Mar 99)
Charlotte Phillips, UK (Feb 99)
Charlotte Phillips, UK (Feb 99)
The Delhi Jama Masjid closes (I think) 30 minutes before sunset. I missed it the first time, but it is a fantastic mosque, even after five weeks in Turkey.
The park around India Gate was a pleasant escape from dirty, crowded noisy Pahan Ganj. I went on a Sunday afternoon and there were lots (but not too many) of Indian families strolling and picnicking there.
There are some great, quiet vendor-less beaches between Chopdem and Arambol (Goa). It's a great low-traffic and scenic scooter ride. There is a bridge under construction at Chopdem/Siolem that may hasten development though.
Heather Boyd, USA (Feb 99)
Paul Weaver, Australia (Feb 99)
Andrew Parth, UK (Jan 99)
Paul Weaver, Australia (Jan 99)
Visit the Mahabodhi Temple, then revisit at night to witness the devotion of follwers by candlelight; an inspiring scene.
Calcutta is a sophisticated city of fine bookstores, restaurants and bars of a standard that Westerners would enjoy. There are more stop lights and traffic police at roundabouts in this city and more motorists honor the signals, making Calcutta a little more pedestrian friendly than other cities and towns of India.
Gloria & Ronald Duber, USA (Jan 99)
Robert Harding (Jan 99)
Manr Hyman (Jan 99)
Diane Defore (Jan 99)
Depinder (Dec 98)
We found that when you are looking for somewhere cheap to stay, Lodges are invariably cheaper than places that call themselves Hotels, this usually is because they are mainly used by Indians not tourists. Some do not like tourists to stay, but the vast majority do not mind, but be prepared for some friendly curiosity if you do stay.
Whilst staying in Thanjavur we witnessed some customer service Indian style. The light bulb in the room next door was smashed on the floor so the person staying in the room asked for a replacement. They took a bulb from an empty room two doors down but the light still didn't work even though it had been working in its original setting. So they suggested that he should change rooms but when the bulb was put back into the room it came from and he was to move to, it no longer worked there either. At this point the staff gave up (he obviously was not meant to have a light that worked so there was no need to carry on trying) and so they left him standing in he corridor half way through rooms. He ended up back in his original room with a candle he borrowed from us and very frustrated.
Thomasina Stanford & Andrew Bell, UK (Oct 98)
Leonard Jemoni (Sept 99)
The very colourful Chikghar monastery at Kasumti is 8 km east of Shimla. Take a bus to Panthachati and get off 30 minutes later at Kasumti. You can go through the village to visit a branch of Tibetan Medicine and Astro Institute at block 18 where you can buy precious jewels and other items. Go uphill and on the right hand side through the market area and right downhill and you will see prayer flags and the gompa. Otherwise you can go 1 km further at the foot of the hill to get to the Gompa. The Gompa has two temples and a new 4 m high Avakolitesvara statue. The paintings are superb. It is an absolute highlight of Tibetan Buddhist sacred art.
Andre Timte, Germany (July 99)
Gordon Sweeney, UK (July 99)
I organised my trip around the local hill tribes quite easily through one of the local tour operators near the beach in Puri. It took about four days with a guide and a driver and was relatively inexpensive. I would highly recommend it to those prepared to make the effort.
Christopher Chaplin, UK (June 99)
Dr. Lokesh Abrol, India (June 99)
John Richards (July 99)
John Richards (July 99)
Rakesh Agrawal, USA (Apr 99)
Shilgram crafts village has great stuff and is really worth seeing. There was dancing and the musicians were excellent. Friendly stall holders and interesting crafts at reasonable prices, although not much bargining to be had compared to elsewhere.
Angus James, UK (Apr 99)
Dr Kapil Midha (Mar 99)
Rod Daldry (Mar 99)
And finally, can anything beat the miracle of Pepsi-on-demand in India? I was in the middle of the Thar Desert on camel safari, miles from the nearest tout, hot, dusty, all my bottled water having lost its chill hours before and wishing like hell for a cold drink, when out of the desert came a small boy on a bicycle, appearing like a mirage on the horizon. As he drew closer, I saw that he had a bundled strapped to the back of his bike. He pulled up and said the magic words: "Cold Pepsi, ma'am?" I can still taste it going down. Only in India.
Kim Haas, USA (Jan 99)
Paul Weaver, Australia (Jan 99)
Munindra Khaund (Aug 98)
C Chatham (Mar 98)
Thomas Kamps, Switzerland (Sept 99)
To save time being sent in circles around Delhi by the Tourist Information Service, head straight for the Dr Ambedkar Stadium bus terminal in Old Delhi (about Rs 40 rickshaw from Connaught Place) and book tickets there at least a week in advance. The buses leave from the same place on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays and depart at 6 am, although they officially expect passengers to arrive two hours early for an airport-like check-in, bag check and frisking.
The drop off/pick up point in Lahore is Falettis Hotel and the procedures are the same. Tickets cost(Indian) Rs 800 and (Pakistani) Rs 1100. A police jeep escorts the luxury bus through Haryana and Punjab and burrows it's way through the chaotic traffic to make sure the bus runs on time and to get us to the three stops to eat nice food in deserted motorway hotels.
Best of all, though, is when the tedious 12 hour journey is made pleasant by the waves of support form Punjabis who watch this novel piece of history whisk by.
Ryna Sheraz, UK (Sept 99)
Bryony Palner, UK (Sept 99)
Rod Daldry (July 99)
Koe Kok Hau, Malaysia (May 99)
Allison Allgaier, USA (Apr 99)
Dean Wall, England (Apr 99)
Steve Krzystyniak (Apr 99)
Angus James, UK (Apr 99)
Sabrina and Wade DeLashmutt, USA (Mar 99)
For domestic flights the ban on batteries was particularly enforced on departure on flights Nagpur-Delhi, Delhi-Gauhati, Gauhati-Delhi. This applied not only to camera and video but also to batteries in torches/flashlights. Batteries were not confiscated, but given to security who supervised us actually putting them into our checked baggage on the tarmac.
John and Elizabeth Cox, U.K. (Mar 99)
Tony Galanides (Feb 99)
anon (Feb 99)
R. Huoso, Finland (Jan 99)
To reach the New Delhi Station from the Old, you can always use a pre-paid scooter taxi. Buy a ticket for Rs 25 from the stand outside the station.
R Lightbulb Winders (May 1998)
The 6635Dn/6636UP Kurla Terminus-Cochin/Mangalore Netravati Express will be diverted from the Konkan Railway with effect from 21 Mar 1998.
Samir Gaonkar (Mar 98)
Ben Ellison, USA (Oct 99)
Antho Eland, Australia (July 99)
Dean Wall, England (Apr 99)
Julie, Australia (Apr 99)
Nienke Groen, The Netherlands (March 99)
Franki Howes and Lorraine Fry (Mar 99)
Anon (Mar 99)
Kevin (Jan 99)
Alison Bennett, Australia (Dec 98)
C.H. Pierce, USA (Nov 98)
George Casley, UK (Aug 98)
Nesta James, UK (July 98)
Douglas Barrett - British Deputy High Commission, Bombay (Mar 98)
Richard Thomson (Mar 98)
1999 (C) Cly-on ל תורומש תויוכזה לכ