íéðéôéìéôá íéìééèîì íéôéè

,Lonely Plant-ä ìù øúàäî äçå÷ìä íéôéè úîéùø íëéðôá âéöà äæ ÷øô úúá
äæ òãéî úç÷ì ïéà ïëì ,íìåòä ìëî íéøééú éãé ìò åáúëð åìà íéôéè
.ïéèåìçì éáéè÷ééáåñ òãéî ìù øãâá åðéä ïàë áúëðä ìë éë åøëæ ,éðéñî äøåúë
- åðì úåòâåð ïðéàù úåòãåää ìë úà éúððéñ ,ãáìá úé÷ìç äîéùø äðéä åæ äîéùø
,(ïèñé÷àô-åãåä ìåáâä øáòî ìò íéôéè - ìùîì) íéìàøùéä íéìééèîä
øúàä ìîñ ìò åùé÷ä äàìîä íéôéèä úîéùøì òéâäì íëðåöøá íà

ìåáâ éøáòî ,úåéåøéøâù ,äñéðë úåøùà -
íééììë íéôéè -
úåéö÷øèàå äëéùî éã÷åî -
äøåáçú -
íéìëåð - úåøéäæ -



: ìåáâ éøáòî ,úåéåøéøâù ,äñéðë úåøùà

Vietnam Airlines sold us a one-way ticket from Ho Chi Minh City to Manila; we arrived in the Philippines with no onward ticket. This caused us to be delayed in immigration for about three hours, and in the end we had to buy a ticket out at the airport. Apparently Vietnam Airlines were heavily fined for allowing us on to the plane with no onward ticket.
Sue Smith, Australia (Dec 98)


It is possible to extend a 21 day visa upon entry in Davao.
Adam Stott, UK (Dec 98)


The New Zealand Embassy is now at 23/F Far East Bank Centre, Sen Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati City. The telephone number is 891 5358.
Conrad D Wenham, Philippines (Aug 98)


The Burmese embassy in Manila moved recently. The latest phone book (just out) still lists the old address. It's now on the 8th Floor, 152 Amorsolo St, Makati. The Pan Asia Bank is on the ground floor. If you look up from the street you can see the flag sticking out the top window. This is a good embassy to go for a quick visa - they normally do am/pm or pm/next am.
Diogenes, The Thorn Tree (Aug 98)

Immigration is now on the 4th floor, Gotiaco Building, MC Briones Street, opposite City Hall.
John Orford, Philippines (Jul 98)


Balikbayans (former Filipino citizens - specifically Filipinos who have been naturalized British or Irish citizens) and their families are allowed entry to the Philippines without visas for a stay of up to one year. This is not widely known.
Aurelia & John Rogers, UK (May 98)


You can now obtain visa extensions valid up to 59 days in local immigration offices outside of Manila without having to send your passport to Manila. If you want to extend your stay beyond 59 days you will need to fill out an application form, which will be sent to Manila for processing and approval without your passport, and will take at least two weeks. Avoid applying for visa extensions in Manila, if possible. You can do this much faster and easier in the provincial cities.
Louie Hechanova (Jan 98)


The British Council Philippines has moved to:
10th Floor, Taipan Place Building
Emerald Avenue, Ortigas Centre
Pasig City 1605
Ahrni G Planco (Oct 97)


äìòîì äøæç

: íééììë íéôéè

Warning to travellers booking accommodation in the Philippines by Internet: I’ve been searching for accommodation for Christmas 1999 in Puerta Galera via Web search engines. One agent has four resorts/guest houses on offer - at a price of US$40 per person per night. Fortunately I found the direct email address of the place we wanted in Action Asia magazine and it turns out the direct booking rate is US$25 per ROOM per night.
Cath Parkinson, Germany (Jul 99)


Emergency free-phone police number in Cebu is 166.
Anon, UK (Jun 99)


People should get tourist maps, brochures, etc at the airport in Manila or at DOT information places before heading out. Maps are difficult to find in the Philippines, eg there are no road maps at gas stations. Doug Smith, USA (May 99)


Recently there has been a big increase in the number of touts here in Boracay. They are quite subtle in their approach, usually offering to carry your bags and accompany you to your destination. When you check in, they will then demand 20% or more of the cost of each night’s stay from the proprietor. The proprietors consequently increase their prices by 20-25% when they see prospective customers accompanied by a tout. The majority of the proprietors don’t like this system, but so far all attempts to get rid of these touts have failed because they are protected by the local government. Therefore, we would like to appeal to tourists and travellers alike not to be tempted or convinced by these people. In Boracay it is easy to select the resort that you like best, instead of allowing yourself to be sold to those resorts who support these touts. Unfortunately, many people arriving in Boracay for the first time are easily convinced by such approaches not realising that it makes the accommodation more expensive.
Julia & Joel Tejada, Philippines (Mar 99)


Angeles: the old '602' numbers have been replaced by the numbers '322'. Also, the '455' area code is no longer in use. Everyone uses the numbers '45'. So, for example, if the old number is (455) 602 4894, the new number is now (45) 322 4894.
Michael Narciso (Jan 99)


The Grand Canao Festival discussed in the guide as happening in Baguio around the beginning of December has been indefinitely cancelled by the regional government because of concerns that it exploits what is left of the local Igorot culture and other tribes of the surrounding Mountain Province.
Batad: this is a wonderful place that soon will be altered forever. They are building a road down into town from the cradle where the Batad Junction path goes over. This will bring electricity, daily deliveries of plastic packaged products and generally destroy the peace and authenticity of the place. Get there while you can.
Stephen Donaldson, USA (Dec 98)


Everybody says that Philippine banks don't like travellers' cheques. It's true, but this does not mean you can't change any at all; it's just difficult. Even in Manila, bundles of banks will only change US$ cash. I got the feeling that the Philippine National Bank is the best bet for those who feel slightly uneasy with the concept of carrying a multiple of the monthly salary of the local population around with them. They have branches at every hamlet.
When in Sagada, don't forget that there is a curfew in force at 9 pm (I think, please ask). There is not much reason to frolic around after dark, but being locked out by your hotel can really put a crimp on your day.
Andreas Mattheiss, Germany (Dec 98)


We finished our 45 day South-East Asia trip with approximately a week on the island of Camiguin. Perfect place to wind down travels. However, there is no electronic banking (including Visa cash advance) on the island. You have to use either cash or travellers' cheques. If you need money electronically therefore, you have to allow a day trip to Cagayan de Oro - first ferry in the morning and last one back, no choice.
Mark A Schneider, Canada (Dec 98)


Boracay: for those who might not appreciate the busy atmosphere of White beach, Diniwid Beach is the place to go. It might be a bit hard finding a tricycle back to Diniwid after 9 pm, but there should be some waiting on the main road or next to the market.
Banaue viewpoint: it is best to take a tricycle up there, walk around the rice terraces for a few hours, and then walk the 4kms down to Banaue.
It is really worth staying at least one night in Batad, so there is no need to tell the tricycle to wait at the junction. It is even better to take one of the first jeepneys at 6 am from Banaue, as it is cooler in the morning to walk to Batad.

Hundred Islands: it is not really possible to stay on the islands. The best islands to be dropped off on are Papaya and Marcos Islands, as they are both extremely quiet, especially compared to Quezon. Although Governor's Island isn't great, there is a fantastic viewpoint. There are also good viewpoints on Quezon Island.
Costantini Inna, France (Dec 98)


Travel agents in Angeles charge huge sums for trips to the crater of Mt Pinatubo, but we managed to find a budget way to do it: take a bus to the town of Capas in Tarlac province, about an hour north of Angeles. From here, look for a jeepney heading towards the village of Sta Juliana - you may have to take a tricycle for the last few kilometres. In Sta Juliana, the Barangay captain can help you find a guide for the trek for about 400 pesos, and you can stay overnight in the Barangay hall (free but spartan) to be able to start early in the morning. The first two hours or so take you through flat lahar fields - this stretch is possible to cover by jeep. After the flat area, you enter ravines of lahar and go up gradually. The scenery is awesome; I had seen several volcanoes before, but nothing like this. It took five hours of hard walking all the way from Sta Juliana to the crater; most people would probably prefer having a jeep for the flat, desert-like first stretch. A guide is a must, as the way is impossible to find alone. Starting from Sta Juliana in the morning, it is definitely feasible to go up and back in one day. However, this trek may be impossible to do in the rainy season, or any time when it is wet.
Laszlo Wagner, Hungary (Dec 98)


Recently I persuaded a friend of mine to visit the Philippines. His sole bone of contention was the changing of travellers' cheques (in Sterling Pounds) without proof of purchase. According to American Express and Thomas Cook, UK travellers are advised to leave their proof of purchase in the UK. However, my friend found that all major banks, money changers and even the SM Foreign Exchange in the Philippines would not change a cheque without the slip. Even worse, many banks, including Banco de Oro, Philippine National Bank, Far East Bank and the Bank of the Philippine Islands only change US$ travellers' cheques.
Winston White, Philippines (Dec 98)


There is no longer any snorkelling to be had at Malapascua Island (off the north coast of Cebu). The coral reef has recently been utterly destroyed by dynamite; no fragments remain.
Anonymous (Nov 98)


The Carbon Market in Cebu City is a good place to get the feel of an Asian market.
Well worth a visit, the Basilica Minore del Santo Nino in Cebu City would do Spain proud. The ceiling murals give a pictorial view of history.
The Plaza Independencia/Fort San Pedro is a nice, quiet, leafy park where you can soak up a bit of history and get away from it all.
Jay walking: despite having read the warning in the guide, when you are used to virtually no traffic rules in South-East Asia, it's easy to forget. I was fined 20Peso.
I would not recommend the hospital in Boracay; the Boracay Medical Centre is the place to go.
Don Welch, New Zealand (Oct 98)


There is definitely a different pricing system for locals and foreigners in Boracay. I picked up a brochure for a hotel package that included the air fare from Manila and seemed like a good deal. However, the hotel clerk told me that it would be at least 30% more expensive for me. I queried three more hotels on the island: the prices quoted were from $30 (fan) to $70 (air-con) for each person with double occupancy, and twice as much if you were single. An average room will cost two people about $100 per night. This is for the low season. I noticed that package deals are the big thing for all the hotels as they obscure the high room costs.
Alan Colville, USA (Oct 98)


We had a lot of trouble exchanging our travellers cheques because we didn't know that we had to show the purchase receipt and give photocopies of our passport.
Elsa (Aug 98)


There is only one place to make a cash withdrawal on your Visa card in Puerto Princesa. The Development Bank of the Philippines on Rizal Avenue has a Visa card machine.
Annette Brünner, Denmark (Jul 98)


It appears that the further you get away from Manila (or other larger cities), the lower the exchange rate you receive. On Boracay, for example, the exchange rate varied from 15 to 19 pesos for CA$1, compared to 26 pesos in Manila. One way around this is to take out a cash advance on your Visa or MasterCard: the exchange rate is calculated on your home country's exchange rate, not the local rate (which in our case was significantly higher). Your best bet is to use your Visa card - they do not charge a service fee for cash advances.
Water: if you are staying for a longer period, have the local water purification company deliver purified water to your door. Saves you the hassle of buying many heavy bottles of water.
Louise & JoJo Solacito, Canada (Jun 98)


Vigan: the historic atmosphere of the town is ruined by the air and noise pollution created by too many tricycles. I couldn't believe that on leaving the city I was stuck in a tricycle jam! If you want to savour the old atmosphere that still exists on streets such as Mena Crisologo and the beautiful Cathedral of St Paul, it is imperative to get out at dawn because the roar of the tricycles starts promptly at 6.15 am.
Brendan Luyt, Japan (May 98)


I first noticed something was wrong when the hourly news bulletins on STAR FM, Tacloban's premier radio station on Leyte, always seemed to come at 8 minutes to the hour. At first I thought I'd reset my watch to Philippine's time wrongly, until I realised that I had had no problem with this in Manila the previous day. So, the next day, I changed radio stations, and was amazed when the same thing happened. News was always announced every hour as being on the hour, always at eight minutes to the hour! I then noticed that the St Christopher bus that took me to Hilusig Mahaplag every day, always seemed to leave eight minutes earlier than on my previous visit. It finally dawned on me that Tacloban City was out of sync with the rest of the world by eight minutes or so! This fact nearly cost me dearly as I was late for my flight home, arriving at Tacloban airport with 25 minutes to spare on Manila time. With a shock, I realised that as 'Tacloban time' was effectively 'Manila time' minus eight minutes, I really only had 17 minutes. I checked in and boarded the plane only by the skin of my teeth, as the flight took off a full nine minutes ahead of Manila time.
Steve Starlight, UK (Jun 98)


There is a huge price to pay on Boracay if you need to buy currency/goods with your credit card. Most traders charged between 7 to 10% for the privilege! Equally, travellers cheques are given a very poor rate of exchange - up to 25% less than for cash.
Nikki Singh, UK (Mar 98)


We made the mistake of going to the Manila zoo. The place is a disaster. The state of those poor animals was appalling, in fact, the state of the whole zoo was fit to denounce it to some organisation.
Bee Brink & Frank Schrolkamp, Germany (Mar 98)


Cirrus ATMs are more plentiful than Plus ATMs in the Philippines, but the situation for Plus-card holders has improved now that Unionbank carries Plus. Unionbank is located in most of the big cities, including Manila, Cebu and Davao. An even better, but scarcer option for Plus is Hongkong Bank, located in Makati. The Hongkong Bank ATMs have higher withdrawal limits, allowing you to do fewer transactions and cut down on fees, if your bank charges them. For Cirrus, PCI Bank is the most widespread option with branches all over the country. Given what a hassle travellers' cheques can sometimes be in the Philippines, it's good to have ATMs as an alternative.
Rusty Cartmill (Mar 98)


When travelling around the world, I like to be able to keep in touch. I am now in Bacolod, in the Philippines and was happily surprised to find an Internet café here (from where I am sending this post card). It's called Le Cafnet and is located at Mayfair Plaza, a newly built commercial centre, along the main street of the city (Lacson Street). You can have your mail sent to them when staying in Bacolod. Nice practical place. Their email address is: cafnet@mozcom.com
Jack Gallagher (Feb 98)


Diving costs have risen significantly. Prices are always quoted in US$ and start at US$25 for one dive (which is more than 1000 pesos at the current rate). An introductory dive costs US$35 and a four day course US$290. At least in Sabang Beach, all dive shops charge the same prices, so you can save the time of checking out different places for the best deal.
Karsten Bohm, Hong Kong (Feb 98)


I just came back from Boracay last week and contrary to what other readers have written about the island's water pollution (green algae), I found it to be clean and safe for swimming. I had first visited Boracay three years ago and the island has still retained its beauty. Of course, there are a lot more tourists in Boracay now since it was named the number one beach in the world, bit it is no where near the numbers that flock to Thailand and Bali.
There is now an internet café on White Beach, just down from the tourist office for those of you who can't live without your email.
Jim Louie (Feb 98)


If you have a student card, you can get discounts of up to 20% from shipping lines and airline companies, although with Philippine Airlines it involves too much hassle. An alternative would be to purchase tickets 7 to 14 days prior to your intended departure. You can get as much as a 45% discount with Philippine Airlines if you buy the ticket 14 days in advance.
Louie Hechanova (Jan 98)


For those tourists looking to connect to the outside world (electronically), its worth mentioning The Global Café, 3rd floor Robinsons Place, Ermita Manila. It offers Internet, email access and other business services at affordable prices.
Michael Ramos (Dec 97)


äìòîì äøæç

: úåéö÷øèàå äëéùî éã÷åî

The newest museum to open in Manila is the Bahay Tsinoy. This small but informative museum traces the history of the migrant Chinese from the pre-Spanish period to their assimilation into Philippines society. The museum also has a gallery of prominent Filipinos of Chinese ancestry from the national hero Rizal to ex-president Aquino.
Mike Lu, Philippines (Aug 99)


In Sagada Mt Province, the newly formed secondary student football team invites travellers to play against them (from approximately September to April). Normally this happens on Sunday afternoons - it’s great fun and is helping the students understand the game better. After the game, refreshments are normally taken with the local supporters, and then the guitars come out to finish off a wonderful day. So if your itinerary includes Sagada, try to include a Sunday to mix with the local Iggorots and students. Ask at the tourist information centre for more details.
Steve Jackson, Australia (Jul 99)


I’ve recently discovered a museum right in the heart of one of Manila’s most populous districts: Quiapo. It’s called Bahay Nakpil-Bautista. The house was built in the 1920s by a successful doctor named Ariston Bautista who discovered a cure for cholera. The house is historic in that aside from the doctor and his wife, Julio Nakpil, the Vice President of the Katipunan (the rebel army that fought against Spain) and his wife Gregoria de Jesus (widow of Andres Bonfacio who organised Katipunan) also lived there.

Unlike Casa Manila in Intramuros, Casa Nakpil is a living museum. The ground floor there is a sculpture shop making religious images and statues. This is also where the Black Nazarene of Quiapo was sent during WWII and where repairs are conducted. Every Saturday afternoon there is always some cultural activity going on, like a poetry reading or play being performed.

Tessie Obusan is the ebullient curator who will show you around the house demonstrating the many features and architectural details of the house. If you call in advance you can have her conduct a tour of the other famous houses in Quiapo. According to the brochure an overnight stay at the house is also possible.

The museum is open Monday to Friday from 9 am to 5 pm, and Saturday from 9 am to noon. You can call them on 551 3325. The address of the museum is 432 A Bautista St, Quiapo. You can get there from Makati by boarding the PVP Liner bus going to Quiapo, via Taft Avenue and Lawton. Get off once you see the Times Cinema, walk toward Escaldo St, turn left and walk to the last corner and make a right turn into A Bautista Street.
Anson Yu, Philippines (Jul 99)


Culion, on Culion Island, is worth exploring. It was a former leper colony from 1906 until the 1970s. There are many original artefacts and records relating to the treatment of leprosy in the museum there. The museum can be found by walking up the hill from the big red church that dominates the town. The museum is on the left and the entrance fee is P20 - this can be given to the attendant when he opens the museum up.
Phil Barnes, Hong Kong (Jul 99)


The wreck diving destination of Coron, Palawan deserves a mention to every scuba diver. You get a tremendous variety of ships at divable depths of 12 to 40m. There is something for everyone here and the quality of dive shops appears to be good. This diving destination is now served by two ships from Manila that are suitable for tourists. On Monday afternoon, the MBRS Lines Salve Juliana leaves from Manila’s north harbour pier 8, at 2 pm. The fare is P350 economy, P520 air-conditioned deluxe and the trip takes 16 hours to get to Coron. You arrive at 6.30 am and should go to the L&M Pe Lodging House at the public market for coffee and breakfast (only place open). The Salve Juliana unloads for two hours and then departs for the town of Limanoncong on the north end of Palawan Island (eight hours) where you can connect by banca to almost anywhere in North Palawan.

The best ship, the WG&A Super Ferry 3, is now on its new schedule of Manila-Coron-Puerta Princesa. It leaves from Manila’s north harbour pier 4 on Friday night at 7 pm and arrives in Coron at 8.30 am Saturday. This still allows time to go scuba diving on the wrecks that day if you take a tricycle to the L&M Pe Lodging House and the PADI Dive Centre, Dive Right-Coron. The Super Ferry 3 continues on to Puerto Princesa taking another 12 hours on this trip. The Salve Juliana’s return trip to Manila leaves Coron on Wednesday afternoon at 4 pm. The Super Ferry 3 leaves Coron on Sunday night at 11 pm. The Super Ferry’s economy class is better than almost all classes on almost all other boats in the Philippines. The eight WWII Japanese wrecks in Coron Bay are located an hour to an hour and a half by dive boat from the dive shops in Coron town. There are also two hot geothermal lakes, caves (easy and technical), two other fishing/cargo boat wrecks, coral reefs and walls, and soon, a Philippine Navy LST (Landing Ship Tank) will be sunk as another dive site.
Mark Bush, Philippines (Jul 99)


You can now literally walk in the footsteps of Dr Jose Rizal. From his cell in Fort Santiago you walk, in say 30 minutes, to his execution spot in Rizal Park. From the gate of Fort Santiago you walk past the Palacio del Gobernador and Manila Cathedral along General Luna Street. Then head for Real Street to the Puerta de Santa Lucia. Outside the gate, turn to the left and walk down Bonifacio Drive all the way to Rizal Park. There are numerous signs marking Rizal’s ‘path to martyrdom’. It’s a good opportunity to get in touch with Filipino and Spanish history.
J A L Werkhoven, The Netherlands (Jun 99)


Manila: every Saturday evening, from about 4 to 11 pm, thousands of devout Filipinos flock to the El Shaddai charismatic faith spectacle, filling the parade grounds west of Rizal Park and spilling over into the park itself. Everywhere there are families sprawled on blankets set with picnic dinners. The program is broadcast, so these folks in Luneta can pick up the words on their portable radios even if they can only see the glow of stadium lights - competing successfully with the setting sun - and not the actual stage. Streets for blocks around are jammed with parked jeepneys and paths leading to the stadium are lined with vendors selling El Shaddai miracle oils in vials and bottles shaped like the Virgin Mary. There’s a big business in rental chairs and plastic mats. El Shaddai packs the stadium with more people than a Stones concert, and they do this every Saturday night.
J Azevedo, USA (May 99)


Apo Island is situated near the shore of Dumaguete, Negros Oriental. The island can only be reached by banca (the boat ride is great, but can be quite rough and you do get wet), which you have to arrange with the locals. The island is protected by a coral reef and the snorkelling is brilliant and diving courses are available. It is a great place to relax and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere as there are very few tourists.
Jeannie Laurens, The Netherlands (May 99)


Dumaguete - best ecotourism spot?
Negros Oriental, or specifically the areas an hour north, south and west of the quaint and quintessentially Pacific backwater town of Dumaguete, must surely be the best adventure travel cum ecotourism spot in the islands. Apo Island, a bus and boat ride to the south, is a cliff-clad, rocky islet with beautifully hidden coves from where one can view the 1500m high Mt Talinis on the mainland as it emerges every morning from the wet mists surrounding its volcanic peak. The turquoise blue waters that lap upon Apo’s shores are so rich with corals and fish that one can even see the peacock-like Lion Fish as close as 5m to the shore line.

Bais, an hour north of Dumaguete, has four whale watching boats that can be rented at P2500 per day and one is practically guaranteed of at least seeing schools of playful dolphins cavorting and spinning wildly amongst the white caps that adorn the Tanon Straits between Cebu and Negros. With a little luck, pilot whales and other cetacean species can also be seen surfing the waves. On the journey back to shore, stop on a sand bar in the middle of the sea and play with tiny silver anchovies that nibble at your fingers as you luxuriate in the warm, turquoise water bathed white sands that floor the Straits. I did all of this and also discovered the beauty of phosphorescent seas at night, all within a four day period. They tell me that there are other treasures still: tall waterfalls and hidden crater lakes shrouded within virgin forests an hour or two to the west of Dumaguete. However, having already fallen in love with the area, I decided to leave that for a definite return trip to this very pretty town with what must definitely also have, as an added benefit, the nicest people in the Philippines.
Khoo Hsu Jenn, Philippines (Apr 99)


I suggest travellers to Manila visit a very lovely plantation in the vicinity: Vylla Escudero. Getting there takes two hours but it's worth it. I enjoyed bamboo rafting a lot.
Kerem Cosar,Turkey (Mar 99)


There is now a community-based whale watching program in Pamilacan Island, Baclayon Bohol. This program was started with the help of the World Wide Fund for Nature in May 1997 for the purpose of giving an alternative livelihood to residents of the island who were once whale fishermen. The skills that have been honed for generations for hunting sea mammals are now harnessed for the preservation of whales and dolphins.
Michael Lehman PCV, Philippines (Feb 99)


An interesting tourist spot is the Tam-Awan Village, which is actually a replica of a tribal village. Apparently, they took abandoned huts from various places and placed them along a mountainside. There is an entrance fee of P30 (I think) but it is worth the money, especially for those who don't have the stamina to go for the 'real thing'.
Michael Narciso (Jan 99)


Sagada in the Cordilleras must rank amongst the most beautiful and interesting places in the islands: pine forests interspersed with millenia-old terraced mountain slopes that fall into the narrowest of valleys, a crisp coolness to the air and the stange imagery of coffins hanging on the side of limestone cliffs. But don't expect a walk in the park, especially if the park is the charmingly named Echo Valley where coffins and underground rivers co-exist. And never wear tennis shoes when doing Echo Valley. Non-grip surfaces plus slippery rocks result in endless tumbles. And your shrieks of pain will echo across the valley floor.
Khoo Hsu Jenn, Philippines (Jan 99)


Possibly the prime trekking area in the Philippines would have to be the Central Cordillera, with its beautiful scenery and friendly, interesting people. Sometimes I was interrogated by local police officials who suspected that I might be a spy; prospective trekkers off the beaten path had better be prepared to have to explain themselves again and again. However, it's still worth it. I met the most hospitable people in South-East Asia during my treks in the Cordillera. Trekkers planning to stay overnight in the villages should consider carrying presents for their hosts, as money was quite often refused. Trekking is quite well-established in the Banaue-Batad area. In Bontoc, trekking maps can be obtained from Pines Kitchenette, and the museum covering the Bontoc and Tinglayan areas. The provincial tourism office in Kalinga province, located in the Capitol Building, have published a brochure describing recommended treks that also contains a good map. The city of Vigan, bypassed by most tourists who stick to the Baguio-Sagada-Banaue circuit, would surely rate amongst the top ten attractions of the country. In addition to being an architectural gem, Vigan also seems to have more festivals than most Philippine cities; I saw one every time I went there. Especially worth mentioning is the yearly Viva Vigan festival that lasts for three days at the beginning of May, and includes street dancing, parades, cultural presentations, Chinese opera and more.
Laszlo Wagner, Hungary (Dec 98)


The absolute highlight in travelling through the Philippines was the island of Malapascua (north of Cebu). Unlike Boracay, this island is not (yet) spoiled by mass tourism so you can relax on the beautiful beaches, take a swim in the clean water or hang around in one of the charming fishing villages. The atmosphere on the island is very friendly and the prices are low.
Sietse Fritsma, The Netherlands (Sep 98)


For great hikes in one of the only untouched forests in the area of Malaybalay, go to the Impalutao reforestation centre (it also has natural growth forests), about 40 minutes north of Malaybalay, between Kisolon and Malaybalay. Waterfalls and rivers throughout the reserve offer a cool place to swim and get away from people. Take a bus to Malaybalay from Cagayan but ask the conductor to let you know where to get off. Locally, it is known as Gantugan, so you may have to ask people on the bus for help if the conductor is not from the area.

Just north of Valencia off the highway, is the Monastery of the Transfiguration. Even for non-religious types, this is a gorgeous drive into the hills where the monks plant coffee. On Sundays at 8 am, there is an English service with a lovely boys choir and you can buy the coffee and peanuts the monks grow. You will need a motorcycle or a friend to take you as there is no public transportation.
Gail Cockburn, Canada (Aug 98)


Please mention the fantastic work done at the Chosen Children Village in Silang near Tagatay, Cavite province. It is a charity run organisation for the orphans and other children of the Philippines with special needs, and provides a school, physical therapy and homes for 70 children. We did voluntary work there for two and a half weeks and it was a great experience.
Richard Carter (Aug 98)


Lallan-Gongob Cave (spelt totally incorrectly) near Calbiga on Samar: this is the largest cave in Asia, with seven chambers, the largest one stretching for 27km. There is no hotel at the moment, so stay in the convent run by Father Fidel. They only accept donations as payment - I recommend 100 pesos each for two nights. This accommodation is very basic but is the only option. A hotel called the Candagas Mountain Resort is due to open at the end of August 1998 in Panayuran near where the cave is located. Take a jeepney to there from the bridge in Calbiga. It is 3km away. For a guide to the cave, insist on Herson, as he was involved with the initial exploration by the Italian team and is therefore very informative. The other guides learnt the way by stealing stalagmites. Look out for deadly Rock Spiders, the Eyeless Fish and White Crabs!
Kevin & Cassandra (Aug 98)


You should check out Panagsama Beach in Moalboal on Cebu Island. It's a small coastal village in the south-western part of the island in the central Visayas area of the Philippines. It has one of the best diving spots in the world - the reef around Pescador Island. There are lots of diving schools at very reasonable prices, accommodation is cheap, food is affordable and varied (from local to European) and the people are very friendly. Did I mention the crystal clear sea water and stretch of white sand? See you there.
Cathy Alvarez, Philippines (Aug 98)


One place worth mentioning is the newly opened Tumarbong Falls Café and Lodging House, situated in a jungle clearing near Quezon, Palawan. It is run by Bruno Chaillat, a Frenchman, and his Filipino wife Tess. Bringing in supplies is a lengthy business and unexpected guests can put a great strain on their resources. Most travellers make arrangements to go at the Backpackers Café in Puerto Princesa. For travellers seeking a rare experience in total isolation, this can be a rewarding place to visit. There is no electricity, gas or piped water. Bathing takes place underneath the falls. When we were there, sanitation was a bit primitive but a loo was on order and the septic tank was almost complete.
Paul & Sheila Doherty, UK (Jul 98)


The Malate area in Manila is becoming the place to go out for diner, drinks and good conversation. Along J Nakpil Street, you will find a block of bars and restaurants located close to each other offering an eclectic mix of music and ambience. On Friday and Saturday, people from all walks of life and ethnic origins flock to the street, literally closing it to traffic.
One bar that's a must go is The Verve Room. The bar is located on the second floor of Episode bar in Nakpil. Top DJs from the Philippines and abroad often play here just for the sake of playing - no ads or announcements. Also, this is probably the only bar in the Philippines where you can actually have a conversation with the bartenders who, I would say, are the coolest on this side of the world. On some weekdays, often Thursday, you can watch a play, listen to poetry and look at paintings by local artists.
Gio Bacareza (Jun 98)


Food specialties:
Guimaras: cashew nuts and mangoes; mangoes that are as golden as the sun and sweet and succulent as honey.
Carcar, Cebu: sundried and fat-fried (and fat-laden) pork 'chicharon' (dried pork skin-fat-and-meat, deep-fried to a crispy treat).
Badian, Cebu: 'torta' that is something short of hotcakes although these ones are oven baked and sugar dusted.
Yum yum.
John D Sanchez (Apr 98)


Egrets and dolphins in the Philippines: in Cebu, across the resort island of Mactan lies a narrow strip of island called Olango. Part of this island is set aside as a bird sanctuary by the government and the UN. Bamboo bridges are linked to lookouts across tidal flats and mangrove swamps. The guides provide binoculars and telescopes. Best time to visit is from September to November when migratory birds stop by.

In Negros Occidental, near the provincial capital of Dumaguete, lies the town of Bais. You can rent out boats from Bais and go dolphin watching. When we were there last Easter, the waters were quite choppy in the morning and we did not get to spot anything. In the afternoon when the waters calmed, the dolphins came out to play. At one time they were simply everywhere around us, jumping and twisting in the air. Very exhilarating experience.
Mike Lu (Apr 98)


Recently drove my trusty Nissan Terrano 4x4 450km up the Cordillera mountain range in the Northern Philippines. Here, some 6000 to 7000ft above sea level, you'll find the quaint town of Banaue, site of the Ifugao Rice Terraces: massive rice paddies carved out of whole mountainsides. Terracing in Banaue is so extensive that stretched end-to-end, the Ifugao rice terraces are estimated to reach halfway around the globe. Put together, the rocks and river stones used to construct these terraces are estimated to far outweigh the materials used in Egypt's great pyramids.

The Ifugao rice terraces are believed to have been constructed as early as 1000BC employing an ingenious irrigation technology that distributes water coming from mountain springs down to each level of terraces through a system of water channels, hollow logs and bamboo pipes. Recently, the United Nations declared the Ifugao rice terraces a World Heritage Site worthy of global preservation and conservation efforts. Also, in 1997, the American Society of Civil Engineers and the Philippine Institute of Civil Engineers declared the terraces an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, boosting the Philippines' claim for these Stairways to the Sky as the 8th Wonder of the World.

Over the past two decades, however, more and more members of the Ifugao tribe (known ancestral keepers of the terraces) have shifted from rice farming to more lucrative means of livelihood as well as migration to the lowlands, resulting in the abandonment and deterioration of the portions of the terraces. Concerted local and international efforts are needed to initiate programmes that will make the Ifugaos stay and maintain and preserve this outstanding monument they have built over the past 2000 years. Viable tourism-for-conservation schemes are an option.
Joey Montalvo (Apr 98)


There is a branch of the National Museum at Tuguegarao in the Capitol complex that has been there for almost 20 years and is probably one of the best small museums in the Philippines. Almost no-one in Tuguegarao knows it is there, but it was very modern at the time it was built, and covers geology, palaeontology, etc very well. This is near several major sites, one being an early man site (elephant kill approximately 500,000 years old), plus Neolithic and later settlements. The Sorianos can direct you or even guide you to some of these sites.
David Coombes (Jan 98)


Make sure you taste the lanzones of Camiguin. Undoubtedly the best in the country and the pride of Camiguin. A kilo should cost around 20 - 25 pesos but will drop in price during the Lanzones Festival usually held during the third week of October. This marks the lanzones season, when the harvest is at its best. Tables covered with the fruit are set outside homes and passers-by can eat as much as they can hold for free provided they do not take any with them.
Toby Martin (Dec 97)


äìòîì äøæç

: äøåáçú

Ninoy Aquino International Airport (Manila) plans to start an air conditioned shuttle bus service to curb abuse by taxi drivers. The service should be running by Christmas ’99. The buses would run to a schedule and take passengers to either Cultural Center of the Philippines on Roxas Blvd or Magallanes Village in Makati.
Anson Yu, Philippines (Oct 99)


Ninoy Aquino Terminal Two in Manila is now open. From 10 August all PAL domestic flights will fly from the new terminal, and from 24 August all PAL international flights. Now passengers flying on domestic routes to catch international routes and vice versa don’t have to commute 3km to the International terminal. However, the situation applies only to flights on Philippine Airlines, as the terminal seems to be assigned to them exclusively. The two other domestic carriers, Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific are still trying to obtain landing rights.
Anson Yu, Philippines (Aug 99)


There is a great deal of misinformation doing the rounds regarding flights to the Philippines from Manado on Sulawesi. The correct fare is $150, not $40. I met two people who had enquired about flights at their hotel travel agent on Bali, and were told that there were no more flights to the Philippines from Manado as Beraqu Airlines had gone bankrupt. The agent also told them that the international airport had closed down. I checked with a Beraqu agent in Rantepao and he told me the same thing. But I arrived in Manado to find that Beraqu Airlines actually fly twice weekly to Davao, Monday and Friday, and that the international airport is fully functional. There are many clueless agents/guides willing to give the wrong information just to save face, so if you want to fly to the Philippines from Manado, phone the Beraqu office there to check flight schedules.
Franco Pagliari, Scotland (Jul 99)


Flights from Busuanga (Coron) to Manila are extremely unpredictable. It is not beyond certain carriers such as SeaAir to cancel flights at a moment’s notice. If your flight is cancelled, the people at the Coron Tours office in Coron do their best to help, but an alternative flight is not guaranteed. The lack of reliable communication links does not help the situation. Contact between Coron and Manila is all by short-wave radio.

For those who miss their flights on a Sunday, there is a new super ferry that calls at Coron at 11 pm and arrives at 11 am in Manila. The cost is P750 for a single bed in ‘traveller’ class and P2200 for a cabin that sleeps two. This will get you in to Manila before any of the flights.
Phil Barnes, Hong Kong (Jul 99)


Taxis at Cebu are best avoided. I was asked for P75 and P125 for the short journey to Downtown. In contrast, I picked up a taxi on the main road outside that had only P28 on the meter.
SuperCats to Tagbilaran (Bohol): these are now all operated by Philippines Fast Ferries who have withdrawn many of the services to cut capacity and force up fares. Book in advance if you can - the remaining schedule can get completely booked out.
When I got to Manila, I found that the first available flight to Puerto Princessa was in six days.
I was also told that I could only book a flight from El Nido to Manila either three or five days before departure. These are private flights run for the expensive resort hotels and seats are only sold to the general public if not required by the resorts’ clients. This was no good for someone on a three week trip. I never made it to Palawan.
Andrew Bartram, UK (Jun 99)


It is now pretty easy to travel by boat between General Santos (Mindanao, Philippines) and Manado (Sulawesi, Indonesia). Go to General Santos and look for the shipping company:
EPA Shipping Lines
Makar Wharf (near Negros shipping company office)
Tel: (083) 380 3591
The boats leave on Monday evening from GS and arrive on Wednesday in Bitung, Manado. To come from Indonesia, the boats leave on Saturday.
By the way, the boat between Davao and Manado does not exist any more.
Jerome Comment, Switzerland (Jun 99)


PAL no longer flies to Dumaguete. Air Philippines now flies daily from Manila. Flights in both directions leave early in the morning.
Anon, UK (Jun 99)


Surigao City Bus Terminal is now on the main highway, just south of town, not on Espina Street.
In Camiguin, there is absolutely no jeepney service after 6 pm.
There is no direct ferry service between Cagayan de Oro and Dumaguette, Negros.
John Steele, USA (May 99)


Philippine Airlines have (finally) resumed flights between Xiamen and Manila and are currently flying every Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday, leaving Manila very early in the morning. They have not (yet) opened the office on Xiahe Lu, after the airline suddenly suspended all flights for 13 days in October 1998.
Tom Jorgen Martinussen, Norway (May 99)


Hundred Islands: getting there from Banaue really isn’t easy - even when catching the first Baguio bus in the morning, it’s hard arriving before night time. We got off at Rosario and had to change at Damortis, Dagupan and Alaminos. From Alaminos to Manila there are regular buses from the Rabbit terminal and it takes six hours.
It’s not really possible to stay on the islands: on Quezon Island, the so-called ‘pavilions’ at P600 seem more like a covered concrete area with benches to sleep on. The best islands to be dropped off on are Papaya and Marcos islands. They’re both extremely quiet whereas Quezon seems perpetually busy and barbecues are continuously going on there. Although Governor’s island isn’t great, there’s a fantastic viewpoint on the top. There are also good viewpoints on Quezon island.
Inna Costantini, France (no date)


The airport departure tax has been P550 or US$14 since 1 April 1999 for international departures at the Ninoy Aquino airport (before then it was P500). There is also a departure tax of P100 for national flights from the domestic terminal.
Frederic Schneider, Switzerland (Apr 99)


Most long-distance buses (Philtranco, BLTB, Superlines, etc) no longer go into Lucena City but, instead, go to the Grand Central Terminal just off the by-pass, from where there is a regular jeepney service into the city. Supreme Lines service to Batangas City, however, still leave from their own terminal in Iyam. Jeeps from the city centre to Isabang pass the Supreme Lines terminal on the right-hand side. Supreme Lines do not appear to have a service to Santa Cruz or Pagsanjan any more but there are about half a dozen trips per day by small bus from Grand Central to Infanta, Quezon which pass by Lucban and Santa Cruz.
Ted Reader, UK (Apr 99)


The airport tax on international flights from Manila is now P550.
The way to go from Sabang to El Nido (Palawan) and vice versa is by boat. There are four regular trips a week (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday) by two different operators. Some go via Port Barton. The return trip is the next day. The boats leave at 7 or 7.30 am. The fare from Sabang to El Nido is P850.
Ino Laurensse, The Netherlands (Apr 99)


The boat between Mambajao (Camiguin) and Cebu City is no longer in business. From Camiguin you first have to go via Mindanao (Balingoan or Cagayan de Oro). There is a fast ferry to Cagayan, 1.5 hours, P130.
There is no fast ferry service any more between Cagayan de Oro (Mindanao) and Tagbilaran (Bohol). When you take a big ship (such as the MV ‘Lady of the Rules’ from Cebu Ferries) from Cagayan to Tagbilaran, the trip takes eight hours. Check the departure times as they change frequently.
Paula Buur, The Netherlands (Mar 99)


Southern Luzon (Bicol): a totally new and interesting way to travel south are the two trains per day from Manila to Legazpi sporting three classes (aircon, tourist and economy) and departing at around 4 and 6 pm. The trip takes 12 to 16 hours and costs P255 (tourist class) compared with buses that cost around P355 and take between 10 and 12 hours to get there. A convenient place to board is Pasay Road Station along South Super Highway. Reservations are mandatory and air-con is hard to get. Refrain from riding economy as it gets really packed whereas the tourist seats have room for legs longer than the average Asian length as well as luggage. The trains are old and the rails are still nothing like the TGV is riding on but the trip is a lot less scary than on the buses that speed through the winding roads of Quezon at night.
Alexander Winter, Germany (Feb 99)


The national airlines of Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines and Brunei have launched an air pass targeted at long haul travellers from the US and Europe. All you have to do is fly to any of the above countries on the airlines mentioned above and you can buy a ticket to any other destination within the six countries for only US$90. You need to buy at least three tickets however.
Magdelene Lim (Feb 99)


Getting Around Manila: there are now 'FX taxis', sporting a 'mega taxi' sign, which are a good alternative to the jeepneys. They travel practically the same routes, but are more comfortable, have air-con and make you forget the exhaust fumes of all the other jeeps/buses/taxis around you. They are quicker than jeeps because they stop less often and they cost 10 pesos or 20 pesos, depending on the distance you travel. They seat eight or nine people in total and if you're lucky, you can even borrow the driver's newspaper and read during your journey. They are a better alternative for longer distances in Metro Manila.
Helene Keraudren, France (Jan 99)


P192: the Eso-Nice bus stop is now at the corner of Gen Luna St and Quezon Ave. Buses to Baguio are aplenty.
Andreas Mattheiss, Germany (Dec 98)


Flights between Caticlan and Manila should be booked at least four days in advance, even during the low season, as flights can often be full, especially during weekends.
There are no more flights between Manila and Baguio; the latest news is that PAL has gone bankrupt, so there is a real transportation problem right now as they had 80% of the market. For the moment, the army is taking charge of the mail.
Banaue: there are daily direct buses, leaving Manila at 7 am - you should be there at least 30 minutes before departure. The only problem is finding the bus terminal in Quezon City. The simplest way is to take a jeepney from Mabini Street to Cubao, and then take a taxi to the terminal.

Hundred Islands: getting there from Banaue really isn't easy. Even when catching the first Baguio bus in the morning, it is still hard to arrive before night time. We got off at Rosario, and had to change at Damortis, Dagupan and Alaminos. There are regular buses going from Alaminos to Manila, leaving from the Rabbit terminal. The trip takes six hours.
Puerto Galera: there are regular ferry boats from Batangas to Sabang. The trip takes less than two hours and costs 65-75 pesos. Direct connections to Manila are possible with many buses waiting at Sabang. The bus goes through Malate, so the driver can drop people off on the way to Pasay terminal. This is much cheaper than the combined bus and ferry tickets, which cost 350 pesos. It is also possible to just buy a bus ticket to Batangas, as it saves the hassle (and cost) of going to the bus terminal.
Costantini Inna, France (Dec 98)


There are now several ships running between General Santos City and Bintan in Indonesia, but as they have no fixed schedules, the only way to find out about departure times is to ask at Makar Wharf in General Santos.
Laszlo Wagner, Hungary (Dec 98)


Travellers flying from Manado, Sulawesi to Davao, Mindanao with Bouraq should check the validity of the flight ticket if it is a return; their return flights are valid for one month only, not three, which they sometimes tell you when booking. The only way to get a longer period of validity is to buy two singles, although this is more expensive.
Adam Stott, UK (Dec 98)


If you do go from Maya to Malapascua, you should avoid the tiny four-man fishing boats when there is white cap swell offshore as they are usually without life jackets. You can get a cheaper ride on the larger outriggers from Maya that meet the bus that brings resort staff back to Malapascua from Bogo market. They leave at about 4 pm daily; look for boat names such as Edne, Blue Water, Bounty Beach, Melody - all of these will arrive at Malapascua by sunset.
Anon (Nov 98)


We went from Bantayan to Boracay direct. You can get there a day and a half via bus and boat.
Don Welch, New Zealand (Oct 98)


The airline situation in the Philippines is getting back to normal. Air Philippines is trying to take over as the country's flag carrier. It is in the process of acquiring more planes for its routes. Cathay Pacific will be flying some of the domestic routes of Philippine Airlines temporarily. There are talks about a merger between these two airlines. These are still in the early stages so keep abreast of the news. A lot of the smaller airlines are also taking over some of the routes so there shouldn't be a problem as far as domestic travel is concerned.
Anon (Sep 98)


We got to Boracay via Pacific Air. A word on this airline: it stinks. At the time, they were the only ones flying to Caticlan (the port near Boracay), since Asian Spirit had been grounded due to safety/maintenance problems, and PAL does not go to Caticlan. The flight cost 3000P and we flew in a six-seater that didn't look very well taken care of. They flew without a co-pilot (they sold his seat to me) and the pilot did not seem especially confident in himself - we flew into a rain cloud that jerked us around a lot and reduced visibility, and he seemed rather shaken by that, commenting, 'what a way to make a living!' I found religion on that flight, and we took PAL back to Manila from Kalibo.
Travellers should call ahead and make sure ferries, planes and boats are actually leaving at the scheduled times. We went quite out of our way to show up in Manila for a ferry to Romblon that had been cancelled for some vague reason.
Brad Harsch, USA (Sep 98)


There is a new ferry between Sandakan (Sabah, East Malaysia) and Zamboanga (Philippines). It started on 28 August 1998. This ferry is much faster than the old one: it leaves from Sandakan on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 8 am. The trip takes eight hours and costs RM100 in economy class and RM150 in first class. For more information call Sandakan Kawana Express No 1 (Phone: 274 743) or Sampaguita Shipping Corporation (Phone: 616 935).
Richard Felber (Sep 98)


Getting There & Away, Bus, Baguio: Dangwa Tranco buses no longer travel the Halsema Rd between Sagada and Baguio. Lizardo Trans (which leaves from the Dangwa bus terminal in Baguio) is your only option now.
Justin Mog, USA (Aug 98)


It's worth looking out for the local airlines' deals. For example, while I was travelling, Philippine Airlines had a deal of 15% reduction for ordering a ticket four days before the flight and a 40% reduction for ordering eight days before.
If travelling by jeepney from Puerto Princesa to El Nido, it's recommended to order a sitting place a few hours before the drive. Otherwise you will sit on the roof for 13 hours - not very comfortable.
Ophir Glezer, Israel (Jul 98)


There is now no normal air service from Cagayan de Oro to Cebu. Many of PAL's flights have been cancelled and their planes reduced from 54 to 14. Get details from PAL. Cebu Pacific (the ones that don't know there are 9000ft mountains around), Air Philippines and Grand Air also fly various routes.
John Orford, Philippines (Jul 98)


There is a weekly ferry service going from Coron on Busuanga Island to Liminangcong on Palawan, departing from Coron every Tuesday around 8 am. A big outrigger boat is waiting in Liminangcong to get passengers to El Nido.
The road from El Nido to Tay Tay is almost impassable during the rainy season. In my opinion, it's too dangerous to travel on, as serious accidents happen on the very slippery, muddy road. It will take a lot of time to get there anyway. Going by boat is much faster and if you can find some other people to split the costs, it's not expensive (around P1300). There is also a kind of boat service between El Nido and Liminangcong and further on to Port Barton (I think only once a day).
Bart van den Broek, The Netherlands (Jul 98)


Staying in the Philippines was more expensive than we had expected, mainly due to the relatively high cost of getting around. There seems to be no relationship between distance travelled and cost.
Paul & Sheila Doherty, UK (Jul 98)


PAL: I advise anyone travelling on a limited time schedule to make all air reservations from outside the country. Waiting in line at the PAL office is not fun and chances are good that you won't get the flight you want unless it's to a major tourist centre such as Cebu or Boracay.
Brendan Luyt, Japan (May 98)


Some people mention that there's not a budget way to get from Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila to the domestic airport. Well, there is a way besides the PAL shuttle bus or a taxi, although the tourist information at the airport won't tell you. When you leave the arrival section of NAIA, you come out at the taxi stop. If you turn to your right, go past it for approximately 200m and cross the street behind. There is a stop for the local buses going to town just on the opposite side. All of the buses should also go to the domestic airport. Tell the conductor where you want to go and which airline you are about to take because they have different departure buildings. The ride should cost between 5 and 7 pesos. The same buses are also good for going to the long distance bus terminals on southern EDSA (like BLTB) or to connect to the quick and inexpensive LRT trains (EDSA station), although, depending on the traffic, it can take up to an hour to get there.
Christoph Kalthoff, Germany (May 98)


The Manila Domestic Airport and the Cebu International Airport both offer therapeutic massage by blind attendants in the departure areas. Good deal at P150 for a 30 minute massage and P200 for 45 minutes.
There's a new airline servicing Manila and Cebu called Astro Air. Two flights a day. Flights from Manila depart at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm. Flights from Cebu depart at 11.30 am and 3.30 pm. Prices are cheaper by 20% if you book at least four days in advance. Efficient staff and food onboard for a one hour flight is not bad at all.
Mike Lu (Apr 98)


Taking the bus (jeepney) in Palawan: there are no set times of departure. You have to get there at a certain time, let's say between 7 and 8 am, and the bus will leave when full. You should always check the departure times the night before with your hotel staff, and, if possible, go to the bus station the night before to reserve a seat inside with the driver or conductor. He will assign you some seats for the journey so you will have a chance to sit with your travel companion.
Manila: transfer from the International Airport to the Domestic Airport can be a problem. If you change airlines from a foreign airline company to Philippine Airlines, you need to pay US$10 per person for transportation fees on the Philippine Airlines airport bus. You can also take an airport luxury taxi (MIA Transport Services Cooperative Inc), for the fixed price of 200 pesos per car. They give you an official receipt in both cases. There is no other solution to transfer from one airport to the other.
Iside Costantini, Taiwan (Mar 98)


Palawan, from Batangas to Coron: the Viva Shipping Lines' MV Viva Santa Ana leaves on Thursday at 6 pm (18 hours or more), and there is NO OTHER boat from Batangas going to Coron!
Ziga Ogrizek, Slovenia (Mar 98)


It's believed that the train to south Luzon is no longer operating.
Romblon: no details on boats from Lucena. Here's a start: I caught, from Dalahican Pier, Kalayaan Shipping Lines' Kalayaan-VII, scheduled to leave on a Wednesday at 4 pm. Engine problems delayed departure for four hours. The vessel arrived at Magdiwang, Sibuyan after a 13 hour passage. Following six hours of unloading, it continued on to Romblon, Romblon Island. The fare to Magdiwang was P175, with no extra charge to go on to Romblon. The company has no office at Dalahican Pier - buy your tickets on board. The only provision made toward passenger comfort for the overnight passage is tiny deckchairs.
The bus from Caticlan to Iloilo City leaves at 6 am sharp. To catch it, you must take a boat from Boracay no later than 5.30 am.
Conrad D Wenham, Philippines (Mar 98)


If somebody flies long distance with Philippine Airlines they also get the chance to buy a so-called 'air pass'. This consists of a coupon system by which you can choose between two, four, six or eight coupons/flight tickets. You'd have to buy them in the country you are flying from since you can't get them once you are there. They are domestic flights. You have to determine your flight destinations but you can always change the date of departure. We bought four coupons for $120 per person. This alternative is a lot cheaper than buying single tickets in the Philippines. The only negative aspect to it is that you have to pre-establish your route which is a bit of a shame if you're visiting the country for the first time, but it will save you a lot of money. It is also helpful to call a Philippine Airline office in your country of departure and ask them to send or fax you a domestic flight schedule, which makes choosing the destinations easier because you can tell when flights leave and if there are any connecting flights.

Each airport wants a so-called airport tax paid once you have checked in. These fares depend on the airport but they vary between 8 pesos to 500 pesos in Manila for example. Cebu airport wanted 250 pesos. We were lucky that we hadn't spent all our money because those prices are per person!
When we arrived in Manila we had to get a domestic flight from the domestic airport. The international airport is 20 minutes ride away from the domestic airport. We went to our airline office to reconfirm our return ticket and asked the clerk if there was such a thing as an airport shuttle. The clerk told us that there wasn't and that we would have to take a taxi to get to the domestic airport. We especially asked a second time but they assured us that that was the way it was. When we went out I overheard a steward saying to a lady that there is a shuttle connecting the two airports! (Although, this refers to Philippine Airlines only - don't know about other airlines).

When you book your return ticket from Boracay/Kalibo airport to your next destination, be aware that if you want to avoid Manila and fly over Cebu, you'll find the following nasty surprise: the only flight from Kalibo to Cebu (Philippine Airlines and I think it is the only flight on the whole), leaves at 7.30 am! This means that you'll have to take a banca across to Caticlan the evening before and then try to find some sort of accommodation for the night. The Tourist Information Centre on Boracay explained that this is because the town of Kalibo especially asked the authorities to enforce such an early flight so that tourists have to stay overnight in Kalibo and spend money there. We considered this most annoying because it meant losing almost two days of our holiday!

A taxi from Cebu Airport to the Cebu City costs between 100 and 120 pesos (with taxometer). It is better to go from the arrivals to the departures and take a taxi there since the taxi drivers are happy to find somebody on their way back to town, which isn't a guaranteed thing in the low season.
Argao (Cebu Island): I suppose it doesn't matter in which city you are, but if you want to take a bus to any location, it is a very good idea to ask the driver of the bus where it is actually going. Buses do show their destination in the front but they don't seem to change the signs. Another good idea would be to be at the bus station about 20 minutes before the bus leaves because, depending on your destination, it isn't a very pleasant trip if you have to do it standing and you can see a lot more by looking out of the window. A bus from Cebu South Bus Terminal to Argao costs 25 pesos per person (not air-conditioned but it is a lot more fun!) There aren't many possibilities to tuck your luggage away so that would be another argument for being there early so that you can at least put it behind the back seats. It is also a good idea to ask somebody to tell you when you are in Argao or any other destination. Buses stop virtually anywhere you want them to stop, but if you've never been and nobody tells you that you're at your destination, you might end up standing in the middle of nowhere with all your luggage and possibly in the heat of the midday sun.
Bee Brink & Frank Schrolkamp, Germany (Mar 98)


In the Philippines, Grand Air has a habit of 'merging' flights for economic reasons, notifying people only on the day of the flight. If, for example, you have a ticket for a noon flight, you could find that they've cancelled it and put you on the 6 pm (they'll try to call your hotel, but if you move around like backpackers often do, that's not much use). If that move fouls up your schedule, your only options are a refund or rebooking on another Grand Air flight, ie you won't get your ticket endorsed over to another airline, as is often the practice in developed countries. And if you get a refund on a ticket bought on a credit card, they say it takes three to four months for the credit to post. Also note that denied boarding compensation in the Philippines is limited to a paltry 150 pesos. In other words, if an airline like Grand Air overbooks and you get 'bumped' in spite of holding a ticket and showing up in time, and they can't get you to your destination in three hours of your scheduled departure, all they owe you, besides a rebooking or refund, is 150 pesos. That's not even enough to pay for the taxi to/from the airport, or enough to prod them into endorsing your ticket to another airline. In the US, by contrast, denied boarding compensation is much higher, usually starting in the free-roundtrip ticket range.
Rusty Cartmill (Mar 98)


Last month, one of the airline companies that Lonely Planet recommended to fly from Manila to Cebu closed because one of their planes crashed (Cebu Pacific).
Pedro Vilata (Mar 98)


Concerning the message above about the closure of Cebu Pacific Airlines: this is not true. There was an incident where a plane crashed and flights were suspended for a short while but are now up and running again. With the strike of PAL, I find Cebu Pacific a much more convenient carrier.
Damon Sattler (Jul 98)


United Airlines ceased service to Manila on 20 February 1998.
Robert Diamond (Mar 98)


Baguio: Asian Spirit no longer flies on the Manila/Baguio route: only Philippine Airlines does now and it is very heavily booked. We could not get a return flight even a week in advance.
Diana H Youell, USA (Feb 98)


There is an excellent bus service now from Tacloban to Maasin via Abuyog and Baybay. The time to Baybay is two hours and the service number is 828. It leaves Tacloban hourly from 8.45 am and the last service goes at 4.45 pm.
Steve Starlight, UK (Feb 98)


There are no longer flights between Manila and Mamburao. The only place on Mindoro that can be reached by airplane is San Jose. For getting from Abra de Ilog to Puerto Galera beaches directly, you will probably have to hire a boat. Prices are 600 pesos to White Beach, 800 pesos to Puerto Galera and 1000 pesos to Sabang (try to negotiate). Expect to get completely wet when taking a small outrigger boat.
Karsten Bohm, Hong Kong (Feb 98)


Since travel in the north of Palawan is not tourist comfortable, it is still relatively uncrowded with foreigners. The cheapest way to go almost everywhere, usually north to south, is by jeepney, but riding the inland dirt roads is a bumpy, dusty, time-consuming affair. Slightly more expensive but far faster and more comfortable is to go by outrigger or banca. The smaller of these boats can accommodate four to ten people, travel fast, and make for rather superior coastal scenery. Many leave before sun-up, plying the west coast from Sabang to Port Barton to El Nido. They can be found by walking the beach and asking crew unloading cargo when they plan to return north. During my recent Chinese New Year's school vacation from teaching in Shanghai, I went from Sabang to Port Barton in two hours for about 300 pesos per person (with about five other people sharing the total cost), and several days later from Port Barton to El Nido in four hours in a small fast boat with three others for about 500 pesos each. Both times we left at 5 am and saw the sun rise over the cliffs and islands.
Doug Cooper, USA (Feb 98)


It is essential that you have an onward or return ticket when you want to go to the Philippines from Sulawesi. If you don't have one you will be refused at the border and sent back, with a huge fine to pay! It is possible to buy an onward ticket (from Manila) in Manado at Wina Mulia, Jalan Sarapung 5, but of course you won't get the best price. We bought a Manado-Davao ticket (Bouraq) for US$40 and a Manila-Bangkok ticket (Philippine Airlines) for US$230. It's all a rather complicated process but it works out in the end.
Joris Postema & Kim den Boer, The Netherlands (Jan 98)


There is no ferry service from Subic to Manila.
Liam C Toner, Philippines (Jan 98)


As you may know already, there is now a ship service between Bitung, Sulawesi, Indonesia and Davao, Mindanao, Philippines. Almost nothing is known about it at the Philippine end, but in Manado, Sulawesi, hostels such as 'Smiling' give full information about the service. The service runs every two weeks, leaving Bitung on a Tuesday, and taking approximately three days to reach Davao, from which it returns on the Thursday. The ship is the Pelni MV Tilongkabila, and a one way economy passage is 158,000 rp.
Alan Edmunds (Sep 97)


äìòîì äøæç

: íéìëåð - úåøéäæ

Beware of inexperienced guides in Ampana who say they will take you to the Tangjun Api natural gas pools and hike back. I met one American chap who did this - they camped out the night and then proceeded to trek the next morning. Within 30 minutes they were terribly lost in very dense jungle. The guide became incredibly frightened and started to panic, insisting that they lie down every 10 minutes. At the American’s insistence they continued on - after five hours they came across a coconut plantation and summoned help. So beware of the clueless.
Franco Pagliari, Scotland (Jul 99)


Robinson’s Shopping Centre, Manila: when leaving this centre in the evening, we were approached by three Pilipinos at the intersection of Santa Monica and Adriatico Streets. We were chatting for about 15 minutes on the street and then they invited us to dinner so we could talk some more. We went to a nearby restaurant - they’d already eaten so they talked while we ate. We had mentioned our plan to go to Tagaytay the following day but they suggested that we leave at once so that we could see the volcano at sunrise and also because there’d be less traffic on the roads at night. We felt we could trust them as they were so nice, well-educated and rich, so we agreed to go along with them. To cut a long story short, they ended up drugging us (so that we slept for 33 hours) and putting our credit cards $60,000 into debt. From this incident, we would like to remind the public to pay attention and be careful when travelling.
Julian Chan, Hong Kong (Apr 99)


New taxi scam at Manila domestic airport: I have lived in Asia for several years and have visited the Philippines many times, so I am not naïve about this. I recently found no way to avoid paying P800 (more than US$20) for a taxi journey of less than one kilometre. The drivers at the domestic airport have always charged double the metre rate or so, which I suppose is still comfortable for anyone who can afford a plane, so you just shrugged your shoulders; but the scam has recently gotten out of control.

The way the scam works is this: you check with the taxi driver that the metre is working, and it is. As you approach the Caltex petrol station, about 500m from the airport, you notice that there is already about US$15 worth of Pesos on the meter. You protest, but cannot get out of the taxi because it has central locking. Each minute you spend arguing costs an extra $1 or so on the ‘meter’. As you look around the Caltex station, you notice several other taxis with similarly irate passengers, so it is obviously a well rehearsed scam and not just an isolated incident. There is really no choice but to pay and get out. If you complain to the police, they will tell you to talk to the tourist office. If you talk to the tourist office, they will tell you to go to the police. (Perish the thought that the airport police get a cut). The only solution is to get any jeepney for a few hundred yards in any direction, get out, and try to find another taxi. Or walk to the international airport. Neither option is a lot of fun, especially late at night with heavy baggage in heavy rain.
Anon (Apr 99)


Mindanao: the whole of the southern peninsula leading down to Zamboanga is now considered quite dangerous. There has been a lot of ‘rebel’ activity here of late - kidnappings, bombing of buildings and boats and even large ships attacked at sea with their crews killed. The bus journey therefore, between Ipil and Zamboanga, should not be undertaken lightly. In addition, the winding road is in a terrible state, which makes the trip very uncomfortable. Also, on one occasion in Zamboanga, walking into the Rio Hondo muslim area, I was stopped twice by the police - they have set up lookout posts there - who tried to dissuade me from going any further for my own safety. I did continue a little way into Rio Honda, but there was an uncomfortable feeling.
Peter Harvey, UK (Feb 99)


I met a nice local woman in Manila, near Intramurous, and we decided to go to her aunt's restaurant for dinner. The next day I woke up in my hostel, with my travellers' cheques missing. I was apparently drugged with Ativan, a sedative, and had my cheques stolen while I was unconscious. The thieves were nice enough to send me to my hostel in a cab.
Elisabeth Hansen, Canada (Mar 99)


I would not take public buses between Cagayan de Oro and Iligan. A couple of buses on this route have been bombed, and everyone told us its best to take a private car (driven by someone who is familiar with the route).
I saw more guns in Iligan than anywhere else in the Philippines. There are very few tourists in the town and the atmosphere is much more tense than any other place I've visited in the country. Although we stayed there overnight, several people in Cagayan de Oro told us not to.
Jason Vorderstrasse, USA (Feb 99)


Please check all the diving equipment in the shops while diving in El Nido, especially the oxygen tanks, before you make any commitments to them. There is one shop that actually has a tank that was last serviced in 1974 (almost 25 years ago!), although the owner will tell you that all his equipment is OK and that you shouldn't check. Many people dived with that shop, but don't take any chances.
Jamie Lee, Singapore (Jan 99)


Be careful if you're doing a Baguio-Sagada-Banaue run. As if the road between Bontoc and Banaue isn't bad enough, there was a huge landslide when we passed through on 28 December 1998. It completely wiped out the road about 8km before Banaue. Apparently it had just recently happened as many of the local filipinos seemed surprised. From the looks of the damage, it will take a long time to fix. It's possible to cross by foot on a narrow ridge and there are jeepneys to catch on the other side to go on to Banaue. But if you're driving it, you're out of luck and it's one hell of a backtrack.
Dale Harshman, Japan (Jan 99)


The road from Banaue to Baguio: there is no warning to travellers about how terrible this road is. The National Auto Club map shows the route as a first-class highway, but it is not. The road through Bontoc on 27 August 1998 had two unmarked detours, three rock slides and was barely passable in a sedan due to clearance. Traffic was one lane only with heavy truck traffic west of Bontoc (where there is only one gas station that closes when it gets dark). To add insult to injury, we were charged a toll at the Malsema toll gate just before midnight. We had to replace all four tyres on our car the next day due to stone cuts and the air-conditioner connection that was fractured in a big jolt. This trip would be an adventure in a 4WD with lots of spares and supplies and some form of communication, but I wouldn't recommend it in a sedan.

Scuba diving in Lingayan Gulf: on 28 August 1998 I was dynamited while water diving off Poro Point at Fag Reef. I'd hired an experienced boat operator but there was no protection from fishermen. The reef is in very poor condition, and of course, there are no fish. About half of the fish which are dynamited sink and half float. The ones harvested are the ones that float. This is a tremendous waste of fish, to say nothing of the long lasting destruction of the reef and breeding stock.
John Funk (Jan 99)


People may tell you to go for a swim at the American missionary school at Nasuli or Matinao, south of Malaybalay. Don't go. Nasuli's once clear pond is dirty and crowded. Matinao is a long, shallow, cemented ditch with a dam that often has problems with schistosomiasis. If you are dying for a swim, check with local health officials to make sure the dam has been treated recently or go to the big hotels in Malaybalay or Valencia for a pool swim.
Gail Cockburn, Canada (Aug 98)


On the Mayon Volcano trek (which is fantastic) be prepared for the sudden onset of flash floods gushing down the lava path you climb up. One minute you're climbing up the volcano in the pouring rain and the next you're cowering in a nearby bush watching where you'd just been standing take the full brunt of a gushing river.
Richard Carter (Aug 98)


As an observation, health appears to be a problem in the Philippines. Never in five years of backpacking have we seen so many sick Westerners in one place at the one time. We read subsequently in Action Asia that Palawan, which we visited, is regarded by some travellers as being in the world-wide top ten list of unhealthy places to stay!
Paul & Sheila Doherty, UK (Jul 98)


Sagada, North Luzon: this seems like a very quiet, friendly little country town, but don't be lulled into complacency about your safety. On 23 March 1998, my travelling companion was walking alone on the road to Big Cave from Sagada at 4 pm and was robbed at knife-point. Fortunately, she was only carrying a small amount of cash and she managed to talk her way out of being raped by agreeing not to go to the police. As she was quite sure that she could not identify her assailant, she did not report the incident to the local authorities. Since this young guy (18-22 years old, Filipino) is probably still around, try not to walk alone in the Sagada area, even in the daytime, and minimise the amount of cash and valuables you carry with you when you go out.
Alana Krider (Mar 98)


As mentioned on p316 of the Philippines guide, Cebu City's traffic cops are quick to issue on-the-spot fines for 'traffic violations' like jay-walking or crossing the street against the lights. Most pedestrian tickets are issued by female traffic cops wearing pastel yellow shirts. There are often a bevy of these officers at the big intersection of Colon Street and Osmena Blvd in the heart of the downtown district of Cebu, so be on your best behaviour!
R Wallis, Australia (Mar 98)


Manila has a lot of petty crime targeted against tourists. One Swedish guy I met was surrounded by a bunch of teens. They punched him and took his wallet. A nearby cop saw the whole thing but did not do anything. I met two other English guys who were also mugged in a similar fashion.
Michael Kohn, USA (Nov 97)




1999 (C) Cly-on ì úåøåîù úåéåëæä ìë