םייללכ םיפיט -
תויצקרטאו הכישמ ידקומ -
הרובחת -
םילכונ - תוריהז -
: לובג ירבעמ ,תויורירגש ,הסינכ תורשא
As of this week (Fri 5 March) you can enter South Korea for 30 days without a visa. Previously you were only allowed a 15 day visit without a visa.
If you go to Japan by boat from Korea and wish to return, you should buy a return ticket in Korea as the prices in Japan are much higher. They only accept yen for ticket payment in Japan, so make sure you don't change all your money before you leave. Also, there is a departure tax of ¥600.
Canadians may stay in South Korea for six months without a visa.
The South Korean embassy in Denmark has a new phone number: (45) 3946 0400.
If you plan to continue on to China after Korea, get your visa well ahead of time. The Chinese Embassy in Seoul requires at least one week for processing. The price of a visa is about US$20.
: םייללכ םיפיט
The Korean National Tourism Office has a web site (www.knto.or.kr) which provides loads of useful information for travel in Korea, including many links to related sites.
I picked up a newspaper at the Kimpo airport called Backpackers Korea. It gives travel tips, accommodation for backpackers, special activities around Seoul, traveller comments and classified ads. They also have a web site which I presume would give the same information. www.backpackers-korea.co.kr
A meal for those on a tight budget. Visit a 7-Eleven store, they provide hot water and a counter so you can purchase a bowl of instant noodles and eat them in the store.
Kimpo Airport, Seoul. I was required to pay a departure tax even though I was charged the tax when I originally bought the ticket. I had no cash left and they would not accept a credit card. Be warned the nearest ATM machine is 30 minutes away.
Chodong is the best place to see fishing boats/catches etc. Todong is mainly the tourist village, while Chodong is a real fishing village. Its good to stay here overnight and then go down to the harbour early in the morning to watch the boats come in with their catches.
I would like to write one tip about toilets. In Korea, petrol stations are obliged by law to let the public use their toilet facilities, and there are more than 10,000 petrol stations in Korea. LG-Caltex Oils (green colored) petrol stations are the cleanest. It is one of their marketing policies.
Many tourists are having problems with credit cards and ATM machines in Korea. I found out that there are two types of ATM machine. One type is operated by the Korean Banks (usually found next to banks and shopping centres) and only accepts Korean credit cards and cash cards. The other, found in convenience stores (eg Seven Elevens) and subway stations, accepts international credit cards.
Its really easy to find free toilets in Seoul: instead of public toilets, the city council made it clear that every building higher than five storeys should provide their toilets on the ground floor to the public for free. Therefore, if youre in a hurry, go to the nearest building and youll be able to use the toilets without payment. However, theres no guarantee that theres free tissue at the toilet.
A word on maps: some of the best maps for cities can be found at hotels. Theyre almost always big, colour, easy to read, written in decent English and Japanese and have many popular sites plainly marked. Best of all, theyre free. I usually just mosey into any big hotel I happen to be walking by, give a friendly hello to the hotel staff and take a look at their brochure stand. Even if youre not staying there, they never seem to mind if you take a map or two. Theyre still a pain to fold though.
Toilets in South Korea are hell to find. It's all very well if you live in Seoul or Pusan and can just pop down to the subway (bearing in mind that the machine that sells toilet paper for about 200 won is outside the toilet). If you live in any other city then you'll be hard pushed to find them. Parks have them, department stores do too, stations are other options as well, but these are few and far between. For the most part, you'll have to cross your legs.
Another thing to note, is that it can be hell to change traveller's cheques (American dollars included). Most banks won't do it (though it may be different in enlightened Seoul or Pusan) and will send you to the Korea Exchange Bank. Those that do exchange often have great difficulty - I even had one ask why they weren't signed twice already! (So I left). It has never been a problem in a hotel, however, and their rates compare with the banks', so perhaps I have found the answer.
Most city halls in Korea provide free public Internet access.
If you run out of cash, it is very difficult to find a bank in Korea that will accept credit cards to do a cash advance. The German couple we met were running from bank to bank in Seoul and every bank refused to give them money by using their credit card. We also had big problems with our Visa card. In Pusan we entered a big bank wishing to get a cash advance service with Visa. After 30 minutes of organising, telephoning and discussing, the officer said that our Visa cards were not valid. After assuring him that they were indeed valid (and another 30 minutes!), he told us that there was a mistake in the rules of his bank and that our cards were OK.
We had similar experiences in Taegu, where the bank officer had to organise a lot and make some international phone calls to his head office and to Visa before he was able to give us cash on our Visa card. So on the whole, bring plenty of cash with you and don't rely on your credit card in Korea. Travellers' cheques are a problem in many banks too: most times you will get your money, but it will need a lot of time and bureaucracy and you will have to answer huge form sheets.
For travellers landing at Kimp'o International Airport: unless you are staying at one of the top hotels, don't bother taking any of the limousine buses to get to the central Seoul area. Instead, head straight to the subway station located at the airport as it is much quicker and considerably cheaper.
Getting cash advances with your credit card is no longer a headache whilst travelling in Korea. A new ATM system called KANnet is available at most major subway stations (eg Ulchiro 3-ga, Chonggak, Youido). They accept most major cards.
We found the best way to explore Kyongju is to rent a car. Unlike other Korean cities, there is not much traffic in Kyongju, and the road is wider and clearly marked in English.
If you want a nice day at the beach you should go to Chilpo beach, about 10 to 15km north of P'ohang. Take a scooter if you can as the buses are infrequent and slow. The windy coastal drive is beautiful as you cruise between the rice terraces, and you can watch the squid boats heading out for their nightly run.
A good place to visit in P'ohang if you have a few days is Jukdo Market. This market houses some of the best and most diverse selection of fresh seafood in all of Korea. We witnessed everything from enormous octopi to what looked suspiciously like whale. Not a place for the faint-hearted but it enables a unique glimpse into a traditional Korean market. Also, if you take bus #105 out to the university district (Jigok) you can find a nice stretch of green grass and lots of open space.
If you need a cash advance on your Mastercard or VISA, the best place to go is the Korea Exchange Bank. They were the first and only bank authorised to do this in the past. Nowadays all the banks can perform the task but only the Korea Exchange Bank charges in Korean won: other banks ask for US dollars on your credit card and then change the dollars into Korean won at unfavourable exchange rates.
I'm finishing up a two year contract for teaching here in Korea, and most teachers that I know have been either quite satisfied or close-minded and unable to adjust, caring only about the money. Most of us off the beaten track do not fall into the second category! Even with the fluctuating won, the pay is still good. In fact, most one year contracts have much higher salaries now. Most contracts are actually much better now because the seedier schools have all collapsed. My advice? Ask to talk to the teachers at the school before you sign. If you get a bad employer, it's hell, but there are plenty of good ones and they are dying for good teachers. It's just a matter of not going in with your eyes closed. If you have TESL or a year's teaching experience, the university positions are excellent. School boards are also quietly hiring now - go to the city's Ministry of Education.
As far as entertainment goes, the Kaiserhof, which is the only place listed, is no longer the popular ex-pat hangout. These days everyone's going to a place called the Hard Rock Cafי (not to be mistaken for the chain of Hard Rocks - though you couldn't tell from the sign - I'm sure if the real Hard Rock found out about it, the Hard Rock would have a lawsuit on its hands). This place doesn't fill up until around 11 pm on Fridays and Saturdays. To get there, go down the small alley across from the Burger King near the downtown post office. Go about 50m and you'll see it on the second floor to your right.
We found it frustrating that very few places, even in Seoul, accept visa cards and so it is important to have plenty of travellers cheques.
You can get free access to the internet at the KNTC Tourist Information Centre.
For those without a passport for whatever reason (left it in a hostel/foreign embassy, etc), the Shinahan Bank, in all cities, will accept a cash withdrawal off your visa card with ONLY your signature.
For those planning hiking excursions in the vast network of Korea's beautiful national parks, be aware that during the dry season there are newly ratified and rather draconian anti-smoking regulations in effect on mountain trails, enacted as a means of forest fire prevention. These are enforced zealously, to the tune of a 300,000 won fine, and there are always a few stories in the paper enumerating the weekly toll of offenders.
To our surprise, our Visa cards and MasterCards didn't work in ATM machines in South Korea. We were told that the machines only accept national credit cards so unless your MasterCard or Visa card was issued in Korea there is no on-line connection to the international credit card networks. Fortunately, the cards are accepted in shops and restaurants.
If you have a problem communicating with taxi drivers, contact Goodwill Guide Taxi. The drivers speak Japanese and English so you just ring for a taxi by telephone (3431-5100) or look out for the Goodwill Guide Taxi sticker on the rear window of the taxi. The Goodwill Guide Taxi also provides a concise tour of Seoul and its vicinity, and has tourist information brochures and guide books. The fare is the same as a normal deluxe taxi.
: תויצקרטאו הכישמ ידקומ
Located in Chungmun, near Sogwipo, is an amazing rock formation that lines the coast, called Ju-sang joli. It is near the Chungmun resort area and seems to stretch several kilometres.
En route to Kyongju (from Taegu) stop off at Manbulsan Temple (Place of Ten Thousand Buddha Statues). There is a large standing golden buddha on top of a hill that can be seen from the main road. Once you turn off and start ascending the hill youll see human sized gold buddhas every few metres, on either side of the road. At the car park you can take a short 10 minute walk up the hill, while listening to buddhist chanting, and see the large statue. Along the way youll come across two buddhist cemeteries. Once at the top the large buddha is very impressive and the view is wonderful. This temple is well worth a visit and it is free!
At Hwaomsa Temple there is a wake up ceremony called Yepul at 03:30, followed by the monks chanting at 04:00. You also get to hear the 4 temple instruments being played - drums to wake the animals, wooden fish for the sea creatures, a gong for the birds and the large bell for humans. It was amazing experience and a very moving and calming ceremony to observe.
If you're tired of the cement cities and temples that all seem to look the same, try Koje Island, the birthplace of former president Kim Young-Sam. The island has wind-swept cliffs, rocky shores and fresh seafood. You might even be convinced that you are in New England. From Pusan, go to the ferry terminal in Chungang-dong (on the subway line) and take one of the hourly boats (12,500 won one-way, 50 minutes) to Changseugpo on Koje. You can pick up a tourist map inside the ferry terminal. The taxi drivers may try to convince you that their cab is the only way to get around the island, but this is untrue. Pick up a bus heading south at the bus stop next to the terminal. Get off at Hakdong and wander around the gravel beach. If its a weekday or the off-season, the only other people you will see on the beach are a few fishermen. There are a few minbak (homestays) and seafood restaurants in the area.
After Hakdong, get on another southbound bus to Haegumgang, a national park. The coastal scenery in the area is beautiful, and you may chance upon a friendship with one of the many black goats grazing on the side of the road. There are many places to stay in Haegumgang - minbak cost 20,000 won and yogwan (hotels) cost 30,000. At the dock in Haegumgang, you can take a boat tour of the area (9000 won) and see huge rocks rising out of the water with fishermen perched precariously on them. The boat also stops at Weado Island for an hour, which is a haute bourgeois daydream in the middle of Korea. Various types of well looked after fauna and birds can be found as well as Greek statues. Its a wonderful place.
One of my best experiences was visiting a bird sanctuary south of Yangyang. The location is perhaps a 20 minute walk from the coastal town of Namai Harbour. Unfortunately the journey from Yangyang requires two buses from the central terminal but the location in a rice paddy-filled valley on a pinetree covered knoll is utterly atmospheric. The trees on the knoll were covered with egret nests and it was possible to get to quite good views of these large (> 1 metre) white birds as they glided into the nests on top of the trees. This was perhaps the first time I have ever managed to get good pictures of birds. In addition the farmers were preparing the paddies for rice planting using oxen. Given that I visited there in spring perhaps I just happened to hit the sanctuary at just the right time but this proved to be one of the truly unique experiences I had in Korea and certainly off the beaten track.
I recommend that everyone visits the Chongdong Theatre (tel: 773 8960; http://www.chongdong.com), which is not mentioned in the LP book. You will find traditional dances and music performances of a very high quality - better than the performances at the folk village in Suwon. It's not cheap, but worth it.
We visited the Hallyosudeo Marine National Park which is not described in the LP. This is surely one of the highlights of Korea. Starting from Chungmun/Tongyong you can do very beautiful and exciting round trips on holiday ships to the many little islands. Beautiful landscape! Hallyosudeo is a good way to experience the south Korean island world if you only have a short time to visit. However, in Chungmun/Tongyong there is absolutely no English information booklet or English map, and no local tourist information. Nobody speaks English, not even in the better hotels.
The Folklore Museum in Kwangju (located in the same vicinity as the National Museum) is a must see! Not only does it represent traditional Korean life and culture, its presentation is aesthetically pleasing. Located in the same area is an art gallery that displays some of the Biennale's permanent exhibits on the second floor. There are other frequently-changing exhibits of local artists on the first floor. The Biennale Exhibit itself is a fascinating International Art Exhibit that is held every two years, with artists coming from all over Asia, Europe and America. Also, the government has built an impressive memorial for the 18 May Kwangju Massacre. It is most definitely worth a visit.
Travellers should pay more attention to Suwon. We found it to be a very nice day-trip (combined with the Folk Village) from Seoul, for those who only have a day or two to spend. At the foot of the hill, near the South Gate, there are many restaurants. You have plenty of time to have dinner before catching the subway back to Seoul.
The night market at Insa Dong (Namdaemun Gate is an easy identifier to get there) is interesting. It stays open all night. However, not all the stores will be open throughout - they take turns to stay open. If you are tossing and turning in bed, head out to the market and get the best deals under the moon!
The Chollanam-do area is famous for its Korean cuisine. It has, by far, the best Korean food I've ever tasted. Kwangju is the home of the annual Kim-Chi Festival held every autumn. If you're interested in tasting, making, buying, or just looking at all the different kim-chi dishes on display which range from looking mildly to extremely disgusting, and your tastebuds are up to trying the fiery hot Korean staple, there are people selling homemade kim-chi who are more than willing to give you a taste test. There are also several kim-chi contests, with a special category for foreigners. The festival lasts for three days and is held in south-western Kwangju at the Yumju Gymnasium. It can be reached by buses 138, 185, 578, 588, and 618.
If you want to find some amazing food and fun in South Korea, take a bus or train from Seoul to Chunchon. This is a beautiful place, nestled between mountains and offers a lot for travellers. For one, Chunchon is famous for its Dalk Kalbi - a popular chicken barbecue feast all over South Korea which originated in Chunchon. As for other things to do: if you want a semi-surreal experience, ask a cab driver from the train station to take you to the Chun do ferry port. It's not really a port, just a small embankment where a tiny little ferry, which carries more than its weight in chickens, tractors and people, takes a five minute journey over to a tiny little island where I think all of the onions for South Korea are harvested. Once there, walk along the path (there is only one), until you find a farmhouse. Say 'Min Bak?' (because they do not speak English, German, etc, here). The farmer will say 'neh' (yes). Min Bak is a rooming house - I have never been to one in South Korea as quaint as the one I stayed in on this tiny little 'onion island'. Here you can live just as the farmer does. Bring food with you and a cook stove if you want hot food. If you find yourself without food, don't worry - you can buy canned tuna and crackers at the tiny little variety store. The 'ajumah' (older woman) who keeps this store is great and she will tell you that you are beautiful, in Korean of course.
: הרובחת
The Korean National Railroad is now selling a Korean Rail Pass (KR Pass), which allows users to have access to unlimited KNR transport across the country. The pass is only available for foreign visitors and is available as a 3-day, 5-day, 7-day and 10-day pass. For more information, visit their web site (www. Korail.go.kr). The introduction of the KR pass coincides with the 100th anniversary of the opening of the first rail line in Korea.
To get to Mt Inwangsan in Seoul, dont be tempted to start the trek from Muakche station, which from the Seoul map appears to be the closest and fastest way. In addition to the steep trails your advance will be halted by a wire fence, with no visible trails to get around it and to the top. Use the route from Iwangsan-gil road, as specified in the guide book.
In Seoul , subway line #8 has opened. It includes a subway station called Namhansansong, which is actually located in Sognam City. If you want to use your stored value subway ticket to get to Namhansansong Provincial Park, on the outskirts of Seoul, take the subway to Namhansansong station then walk about 3 blocks in the direction of the Park until the bus stop sign shows the #88 or #88-1, then wait for either of these two buses, which will get you to the entrance of the park, at the bottom of the hill.
Chongju, Chungbuk-do: some time in March this year, Chongjus express and intercity bus terminals moved to a new location at Ga-gyung dong. The two terminals are these mammoth, modern-looking and slightly colourful structures right across the street from each other. Near the terminals is a giant department store called Magnet that is still under construction. There are a number of mid-range hotels near the terminals at their new location, but not much else.
There is a ferry service between Pusan and Yantai. This is mentioned in the China guide but with few details and is completely omitted in the Korea guide. The ferry company is C&K Ferry Lines (tel 051 441 8888). The ferries from Pusan to Yantai run on Saturday at noon and the return ferry leaves on Thursday at 7 am. The price one-way is US$120 or US$168 for a round trip.
Seoul: subway line seven now runs to Sanbong bus terminal; there is no need to get there by city bus or Korean Rail connections.
The subway in Seoul is the best mode of transportation. It is cheap! It's also clean, safe and if you can't get the names of the stops, use the numbers instead. The map highlights the routes nicely and passengers wanting to transfer to another track will find it extremely user-friendly.
After some time in Seoul and a few days in Kyongju we travelled to Yosu via Pusan. The ferry from Pusan to Yosu no longer operates, but there is a direct bus (about three and a half hours).
The good news is that more subway lines have been finished; most importantly the one leading to the airport.
There is a used-car dealership in Seoul that sells used cars and has English speaking salespeople. The main reason I mention this is because they will agree to buy your car back from you if your stay in Korea is only temporary! This is especially helpful to those visitors like myself who are here for a year or more and do not live in Seoul where public transportation is actually more convenient than a private car.
Two updates for airline listings:
Smoking is not allowed on ANY buses, unless you happen to be the driver. A good half of the drivers I encountered (city, inter-city and express) smoked! Inter-city buses on the east coast may feel deathly slow, but it is a great way to meet the locals - this lead me to believe that it's customary to share your lunch with whoever you happen to be seated next to!
For domestic flights, you still need your passport (but not for the ferry, curiously). I didn't take mine to Cheju-do, and ended up being detained by immigration (in the domestic terminal trying to catch a domestic flight). I missed the flight simply because immigration wanted to 'know my nationality'.
Koreans have a tendency to put foreigners on the highest class possible. You must stress that you do NOT want first class seats on Tongril or Munganghwa Lo trains, or they will automatically sell it to you.
: םילכונ - תוריהז
Bottled water warning, Seoul: the United States army has just removed SANSU bottled water from their commisary shelves in bases across Korea. They discovered e-coli bacteria in some bottles, so stick with other brands. Listen to 102.7FM, the armed forces Korea network (AFKN) for more info/warnings.
Leif Soderlund, USA (Mar 99)
Peter Boers (Nov 98)
Kris Wymenga (Mar 98)
Peter Jakobsen, Denmark (Jan 98)
Michael Kohn, USA (Nov 97)
Terry Nakazono, USA (Nov 99)
Erik Bogaardt, Netherlands (Sept 99)
Maria Kerby (Sep 99)
DS Min, Korea (Aug 99)
Lisa Cha, Singapore (Aug 99)
Kyong-Sun, Chang, South Korea (Jul 99)
Yulgene Suh, Korea (May 99)
Justin Barrass, UK (May 99)
Jaromir Hudos, Czech Republic (May 99)
Wolfgang Mohl, Austria (Jan 99)
Steven James (Nov 98)
Mizushi Hajime, Japan (Oct 98)
Shawn Plummer, Canada (Oct 98)
Ivan Dell'Era (Sep 98)
Bradley Windsor (May 98)
Kimberly Bristol, South Korea (Feb 98)
Martin & Elizabeth Forbes, UK (Jan 98)
Peter Jakobsen, Denmark (Jan 98)
Richard Middleton, UK (Nov 97)
Shane Howard, USA (Nov 97)
Lars Terje Holmaas, Norway (Aug 97)
Hyung, UK (Aug 97)
Casey Curran, South Korea (Oct 99)
Kerryn Deayton, Australia (Oct 99)
Kevin Meadowcroft, USA (Apr 99)
Stephen Lowe, Canada (Jan 99)
Wolfgang Mohl, Austria (Jan 99)
Melissa Carroll, Korea (Dec 98)
Isabel Wilmink (Nov 98)
Munindra Khaund, USA (Sep 98)
Kimberly Bristol, South Korea (Feb 98)
Tamara J Bahr (Oct 97)
Terry Nakazono, USA (Nov 99)
Yulgene Suh, Korea (Jun 99)
Martin Sulev, Canada (Feb 99)
Hans Fix, Australia (Dec 98)
If you are flying out of Seoul after your stay, you can check in at the downtown Korean City Air Terminal. You can go through all the formalities here: baggage, immigration, etc. For a small fee, you can be transported to the airport in the bus. The best thing about checking in at the KCAT is that when it comes to actually going through security at the airport, you need not stand in the long line with all the passengers! You are allowed to proceed through another gate (adjacent to the regular passenger queue) and walk straight through security.
Munindra Khaund, USA (Sep 98)
Martin & Elizabeth Forbes, UK (Jan 98)
The narrow gauge railway service from Inch'on to Suwon has been cancelled. The Korean Folk Village shuttle bus departs from Suwon station plaza. The last bus for Suwon station leaves outside the Folk Village at 3.30 pm in winter, and 4.30 pm in summer. But there are also direct buses from Chamsil.
Heike Hermanns, Korea (Jan 98)
David P Ellis, USA (Nov 97)
Korean Airlines: (02) 656 2000
Northwest Airlines: (02) 666 8700
David P Ellis, USA (Nov 97)
Richard Middleton, UK (Nov 97)
Richard Middleton, UK (Nov 97)
Nigel Foster, New Zealand (Oct 97)
Tony, The Thorn Tree (Jul 99)
1999 (C) Cly-on ל תורומש תויוכזה לכ